Saturday 19 July 2014

The Towers of Rain

Due to its altitude, location and length of routes, the north face of Ben Nevis can be a serious undertaking. This in mind many of the classic routes are merely scrambles of Diff to VDiff standard so with a poor forecast we decided to give the most classic of all the classics a bash - Tower Ridge. 

A rather snowy approach.. considering its July!
The weather was cold, wet and very misty! After running to the CIC hut we had a brief look at the map and plunged ourselves into the mist and launched up the hillside. Out of nowhere the way was barred by a huge rock wall of the Douglas Boulder. We tackled this round the side up a snow filled gully where we were squeezed between ice and the rock face we stopped the gully and started the route.

Moving up the 'little tower' through the mist
The weather was cold, wet and very misty! After running to the CIC hut we had a brief look at the map and plunged ourselves into the mist and launched up the hillside. Out of nowhere the way was barred by a huge rock wall of the Douglas Boulder. We tackled this round the side up a snow filled gully where we were squeezed between ice and the rock face we stopped the gully and started the route.

Jed on the exposed traverse below the Great Tower

The steep and slippery chockstone chimney

Several wet pitches on the steeper stuff and some moving together (and a quick chat with mountain rescue who were up there rescuing a stranded party) we eventually reached the (in)famous tower gap. This is a narrowing in the ridge and a awkward down climb just below the summit tower. Usually you'd be able to see a drop of hundreds of feet but instead today we had a apparently bottomless drop into a white nothingness, made all the more interesting with the film of water and grease on all the holds! 

A rather eairy tower gap below the final summit tower
After negotiating this and one or two more pitches up slippery slabs we reached the top and the world and his wife!

Looking back of the corie after the descent, typically the weather has started to clear!