Underrated exploration

Blackmount and Loch Tulla seen from Beinn Achaladair

The Blackmount is often seen but arguably little explored. This foreboding range of hills in the northern extremity of Argyll and Bute is well viewed from the A82 as it crosses Rannoch Moor from Bridge of Orchy through to Glencoe, but a combination of long approaches and rough mountainous terrain tend to put off all but the most intrepid. 

One of the most iconic peaks of this range, Stob Ghabhar, hides away behind smaller hills but can be teased into view by following the winding road around the side of Loch Tulla. Unfortunately for us the lazy winter sun was yet to stir, with our field of vision constrained to the circle or torchlight on the ground in front. As we climbed higher up the hill the morning drizzle turned quickly to snow and the ground became hostile and frozen. Coming here was a risk, but considering more promising venues were strictly out of bounds, this was the best option we had and so it was with great relief that arriving at the crag we found a winter wonderland. 

The tops of the mountains in Scotland can be a wild and unforgiving place in winter, but are always worth the effort

Our objective was the rarely visited east face, to climb a line that until recently I thought hadn't yet seen a winter ascent. Capricorn is a rock climb graded Diff, and climbs the bounding rib right of the Upper Couloir, a renowned mountaineering classic grade II gully.  It transpired Capricorn received a winter ascent in 2000 and was graded IV,4, but very little information existed on that ascent and nothing on anything done subsequently.

The face itself is accessed from the col, just short of the summit cairn and so has a fairly long (not to mention high) approach compared to a lot of Scottish winter crags. A short traverse under the lower crags on the southern side eventually lead to the gully and the rib itself. 

The first pitch is open to some interpretation, however we started up the left side of the lowest part of the buttress climbing a shallow groove with some bold and delicate moves before the angle eases and a corner is reached. After a step left, more corners and grooves are followed to a thread belay just before a sharpening of the arete (~40 m). The next pitch climbs the arete, which becomes well defined and is akin to a slightly harder version of Dorsal Arete over in Glencoe (another ~40 m). The last pitch climbs easy snow to the top, just below the summit (~20 m). 

Ben on the second pitch of Capricorn (IV,4) on Stob Ghabhar

Ben getting onto easier ground on the lower pitch of Capricorn

The final pitch, with fabulous arete seen in behind

 

The route was definitely worthy of its grade IV, with no particularly hard moves. We had some useful neve and good frozen turf, but cracks were often blind and few and far between. None the less, the route was easily comparable in quality to some of the better routes in the northern corries or in the Lochan in Glencoe and deserves at least 2 stars.  

A very idyllic setting in the glens below the Blackmount

Unlucky on Lomond

Local travels restrictions in Scotland have meant that winter climbing venues are somewhat more limited than usual. Thankfully Stirlingshire is quite extensive and even includes some pretty high mountains like much of the eastern Trossachs as well as the hills around Glen Dochart. 

With last season coming to such an abrupt end because of national lockdown, I was itching to get out and with the arrival of the first winter storms at the start of December, Seb and I rolled the dice and headed for Ben Lomond. This distinctive hill is often noted as one of the most frequented Munros in Scotland and was also once popular with climbers, but fell from favor in the 1900s when people realized it was more fun to climb in the sunshine on dry rock that wasn't covered in moss. As a winter venue, its low latitude and modest altitude means its not often in condition and because of that must only see a few visits a year. Given it was one of the highest venues in Stirlingshire and that it had been snowing in the glens in the days running up to our visit, it seemed like a logical choice of venue to kick off the winter climbing season. 

Our objective was Lomond Corner, the classic IV,5 that dominates the northern end of the remote corrie which is situated on the north side of the mountain. The corrie is often glanced into by summit aspirants taking a break on their way to the top, or those continuing more leisurely during descent, but must be otherwise rarely visited (intentionally at least..). Our approach from the loch side car park on Loch Lomond wasn't too bad on the scale of Scottish winter climbing walk-ins, being a mere 10 km with around 900 m of elevation. As we ascended the muggy air and light rain was quickly replaced with freezing fog, iced up rock and even the occasional snow flurry. It all felt very promising in terms of the route being in condition for climbing and as we descended into the upper corrie from just short of Ben Lomond summit, we were delighted to find rocks covered in snow and ice, and turf which looked equally icy and wind blasted. 

Looking up Lomond Corner. Promising from below but alas not to be.

Looking across the coire from just below the summit of Ben Lomond, just before we dropped down in search of climbing

To get to the corner itself required a descent into the corrie, then a traverse of a few hundred meters along the base of the cliff, past "A" and "B" Buttresses, to "C" Buttress. As we dropped into the shelter of the lower section of the corrie, favorable conditions quickly started to disappear, with the ground underfoot becoming boggy under the snow, and the rock dripping in the warmth of the morning light. In a fit of dismay, I went up the first pitch swimming through soft powder, cruddy ice and mud. A few crucial sections of steepness were overcome with little dignity as turf ripped and ice disintegrated. Whilst it looked passable from below, the route was definitely out of condition and so to avoid any more damage I lowered off and we retreated back up the corrie. Thankfully we managed to find a high section of cliff which was more exposed and was still frozen. With no topos or route descriptions we decided to make our own fun and climbed a 40 m line through some turfy grooves past a short and steep chimney crack in the headwall. We named the route "Break Dance" and graded in IV,5 with it being most III apart from the hard section through the chimney. After that we attempted another route, but with the temperatures rising and the turf thawing, it was impossible to commit to the gearless swing through a overhanging corner and thus an equally dodgy downclimb was proceeded by abandoning climbing altogether and heading for the summit. Whilst not ideal for climbing, the beautiful winter sunshine definitely made for stunning vistas from the summit of Ben Lomond.   

Seb on the steep finish to our new route, Break Dance, up on Ben Lomond

Escaping the coire and heading for the top. Conditions weren't at their best, but we still managed something

The Trossachs seen from the top of Ben Lomond. I've had worse views.

The summer that almost was

Its been a quiet year for climbing. The drama of life persists to dominate my focus and commitment. Finding positives in life has become a ritual and essential task. Thankfully there have been a few opportunities to get out this year and so I've shared a few favorite mountain memories below.

Mike on the wonderfully exposed Bell's Variation finish to the Cumming-Crofton Route on the remote Bheinn a' Bhuird, Cairngorms 

Rafe seconding the fantastic sandstone corner on Central Buttress over in Coire Mhic Fherchair

Base camp in Coire Mhic Fherchair. Looks like paradise but was actually complete midge hell. 

Rafe getting in the groove on Primitive Dance (E2 5c), a classic Ardmair skin graft

A classic Scottish wild camping supper

Rafe on Black Gold, a superb slab climb down at Reiff

Rafe on the first pitch of Olympus on East Buttress in Coire Mhic Fherchair

The end of another day in the big mountain office. Climbing in the remote mountains of the west coast of Scotland really is one of the best life reset buttons out there. 

Approaching the majestic triple buttress in golden hour

Rafe on the first pitch of Groovin' High on Far East Buttress. One of the best E1s you'll find anywhere.

More steep far east buttress action

Just as we settled down for dinner and bedtime, so were the midges

Route 2, Diabeg. Brilliant.

The friendly groove, a HVS traderoute at Ardmair. 

A photo of the author on Gun Furry (E2 5c) in the Thorntons Quarry. No stars in the book, but apart from the dirt and a tiny bit of loose rock it was actually a reasonable route

Ben on the second. Almost enjoying himself.

Trying to find the "poor belay" at the top of the only wet route in North Wales

Of course picking to climb a three pitch mountain E1 would only end one way...

Rafe being chased by the setting sun up the fantastic Lot's Groove (HVS 5a) on Glyder Fach

Burly welsh off-widths and blue skies

Rob climbing the steep groove of Guacho at Hawcraig. Probably one of the more enjoyable HVS in the central belt and nowhere near as loose as expected

Rob making short work of the classic Pain Pillar (VS 4c)

Seb following the wonderfully but grippingly exposed pitch of Whether Wall (VS 4c) on the Cobbler

Beautiful exposure on the headwall of the equally enjoyable Whither Wall. Climbed at the end of September in baking sunshine. At least it was on this side of the hill, must have felt below zero in the shade with a freezing wind.

Some climbers enjoying Punsters Crack in the autumn sunshine

Gregor enjoying the delights of Pathfinder (E1 5b) at Thorntons Quarry near Stirling. 

Guess thats all for now. Hopefully winter will start soon and then there will be some more interesting things to photograph and write about.

Wet n Wild

The weather waits for no man, but no man with psyche waits for the weather.

Now travel restrictions are lifted, its back to the hills for me, but with a slightly different approach than before. Fuel and provisions all bought close to home, with no stops in toilets cafés or whatever. Doing my bit I guess. But aren’t we all?

The weather seems to treat lockdown like a midweek day. Stunning and beautiful weather, until you get some free time, then its back to pissing rain and swollen rivers. An endless amount of time inside  has certainly given me the enthusiasm to look past the weather though, and just get on with enjoying some freedom.

With a dreadful forecast but a pocket full of psyche, myself and Rob found ourselves catching the early ferry across from Inchree to Coran, with the Great Ridge of Garbh Bheinn fastened in our sights. The guidebook suggested that the walk up the glen to the upper corie was one of the wettest approaches in Scotland. Needless to say there was no exaggeration, and our feet were sodden within 100 m of stepping off the road.

Thick cloud and pulses of rain meant the ridge (and its base..) remained elusive for the entire walk up. All we had to go on was a pixeled picture of a topo taken last night on a phone sat on the sofa, which hardly resembled the swirling mess of white and grey which we saw before us. Not to be disheartened, we eventually made it to what looked like the start of the direct route, or at least we convinced ourselves that what we saw before us compared vaguely to the description of the start and the first pitch. With water pouring down the route in vast sheets, taking off trainers to don rock shoes was an unappealing option, so we both initially made-do in trainers. After Rob starting up and securing a belay, I followed up skating and cursing my trusty fell running shoes, whose lugs were clearly no match for the sodden and sloping Lewisian gneiss. I set off up the second pitch only to be barred by a small overlap, which proved too much for me so put in a belay and handed the reins to Rob. That next pitch proved to be quite eventful, with a very wandering line up steep and slippery slabs. A great lead by him. To make up for my misgivings I led the remaining two direct pitches before we gained the main ridge and then moved together to the top, with the odd pitch thrown in on the steeper stuff.

A very wet and boggy Coire an Lubhair, the appraoch to Great Ridge

Looking up through the gloom up towards the Great Ridge. The direct start climbs grooves and slabs in the lower left of the photo

Rob starting up Great Ridge after finishing the Direct Start

The author on a damp second pitch of the Direct Start (credit Rob Steer)

Another weekend. Another shit forecast. After backing off on Direct Route on Great Ridge I was determined to regain some confidence and so (perhaps foolishly..) myself and Jed set out in the monsoon up to Langdale’s Bowfell Buttress. Once again I found myself stood under a crag I could not see the top of through the white and grey gloom of the summer rain. Wind blasted and soaked to the skin, we set off up the first pitch feeling a combination of anticipation and dread. Quite a mixture. The heaviness of the rain deterred both of from adorning rock shoes, so opted to stick with big boots increasing the excitement. After a few thrutchy pitches we found ourselves below the crux wall on the fifth pitch. Whilst no more than 5m high, the wall is plum vertical, hosting a very smooth and wide crack, with plenty of gear but very little in the way of holds. It is this pitch alone that gives the route its grade of HS 4b. In dry weather and rock shoes, it would go without incident but was a serious battle in the deluge we found ourselves in. As such, making it through this crux clean and on-sight in big boots was a bit of victory and I felt redemption from my cowardess on Garbh Bheinn.

The next day Jed and I had a fair forecast for the afternoon so headed up to Sca Fell Pinnacle and opted for Direct from Lord’s Rake to Hopkinson’s Cairn, a magnificent and traditional line which is topped off by a traverse of the outstanding Knife Edge Arete between Low Man and High Man on the pinnacle. Wet weather climbing serves a purpose, but it really doesn’t come close to the joy of sticky rubber and dry rock.   

Jed questing across soaking walls on third pitch of Bowfell Buttress

Jed on easier ground just above the crux wall

Very atmospheric. Indeed, no shortage of atmosphere with all that cloud and rain!  

     

Looking up Sca Fell Pinnacle. Our route climbs the short grove then continues more or less in the centre to the top

Jed making some very delicate moves on Herfords Slab

Jed on the outstandingly exposed knife edge arete between Low Man and High Man on Sca Fell Pinnacle