Sunday, 12 November 2017

Loudoun Calling

This weekend saw a return visit to Loudoun Hill in Aryshire. It was cold, crisp and bright. As perfect a winters days as could be hoped for in mid November. The rain over the previous days and weeks meant that some of the main crack lines were seeping quite substantially, but thankfully the crag is south facing, so the sun eventually dried out enough of the rock to keep us satisfied.

The day started with ascents of Pulpit Arete (S), Frustration Wall (HS 4b) and Conclusion Wall (HS 4b). After that we all headed over to The Edge (VS 4c), a stunning multi-pitch *** route that climbs a partially detached pillar in the middle of the large and mossy south east face of the outcrop. The famed 2nd pitch arete is about 20m long and is on very clean compact rock, consequently having virtually no gear other than one or two slings on flat holds. Perhaps one of the best pitches of VS I've done this year and even now, i'm still smiling.

Loudoun Hill in the morning sunshine. Photo taken by Gregor

Gregor leading Pulpit Arete in amazing November sunshine

Iain on the 4a crux crack of Pulpit Arete. Photo taken by Nicholas

Berny seconding Furstration Wall (HS 4b). Photo taken by Iain

Moving out from the belay up towards the arete on The Edge (VS 4c)

The Edge (VS 4c)

Gregor seconding The Edge (VS 4c)

A good days craggin' with good craic. Photo taken by Iain
After the sun started to disappear behind the haze and the damp started to take hold we opted to bail, but via Auchinstarry just to squeeze the last of the light out of the day. Both Tar (S) and Orange Flash (HVS 5a) were nabbed before it got a bit too dark..

Finishing the day off with a quick ascent of  Orange Flash (HVS 5a)
For those that might be interested, I'm now on Instagram too! @wainwrightclimbing