Auchin' on the Wild Side

Auchinstarry Quarry is quickly becoming one of my most favourite crags in the central belt. This trip I managed to do a route I’ve been eyeing for a while now. Walk on the Wild Side (HVS 5a) climbs straight up the middle of a large slab hidden in a more quiet part of the quarry. The line itself starts just right of Trundle (which is a wicked VS 4c) and aims for a faint crack at about 10m then follows it to the top. The gear is small and so are the holds, so it’s surprisingly absorbing for route only 20(ish) meters long. Perhaps one of the best slab climbs I’ve done and if it were at a nicer crag would almost certainly be a well-known regional classic. 

Looking down onto the top of the slab with the pond just beyond (Taken by a passer by)

Fran floating up the final crackline

Loudoun Hill

Managed a quick morning session in between showers at Loudoun Hill in South Lanarkshire this weekend. After warming up on Pulpit Arete (Severe) I then managed to get Pulpit Crack ticked. Both routes are totally great, with the former being surprisingly balancy for a S and the latter being totally the opposite. Pulpit Crack is a totally overhanging HVS fist crack / corner that joins the arete near the top. The crag itself is a weird igneous alkaline sill that forms this amazing conical hill that towers over the surrounding bog. The crag is most famous for a route called The Edge (VS 4c) which climbs this amazing looking partially detached tower.. One to go back for..

On the upper arete after the lower thrutchy section of Pulpit Crack (HVS 5a)