This week saw another post-work climbing session at
Auchinstarry Quarry near Kilsyth. We warmed up on Spirogyra which is an
un-starred VS 5a on the right side of the Promontory. Although much of the line
is shared with the far superior route of Promontory Direct (HVS 5a), Spirogyra
is definitely a good route in its own right with some steep and interesting
moves on big holds around on the more obscure side of the Promontory. Having done
the direct a few months earlier I knew the off-width at the base was going to
be a fight but I’d forgotten just how awkward it is! I was definitely warm
after battling with it that’s for sure!
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| Nicolas moving round onto the awkward ledges before the steep head wall on Spirogyra VS 5a |
We then nipped round the corner and Nic lead a Severe called
Tar. Although it had some good moves, it was quite sparse on gear and actually
quite loose, which is a surprise given the volume of polish it had on it…
With time for only one more climb we headed round to the little
amphitheatre, a more esoteric and quieter section of the quarry
adjacent to Mascaraed Buttress. The line was Orange Flash, a seemingly little
traveled HVS situated in an open corner. Looking down from the top the route
was full of cobwebs and plants and the holds full of soil, so I opted to abseil
the line and give it a clean before our ascent. Once unearthed the route turned out to be a
real gem, with an easier lower half and a much tougher top section with steep
and compact side walls with only a thin finger-tip crack running to the top.
Its perhaps one of the best routes I’ve done at the quarry and definitely
deserves more traffic.
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| Nicolas bridging the corner on the brilliant Orange Flash (HVS 5a) |
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| A photo of Nicolas from a few months ago on Red Lead (VS 5a) on Mascaraed Buttress just round the corner from Orange Flash |
