Thursday, 1 October 2020

The summer that almost was

Its been a quiet year for climbing. The drama of life persists to dominate my focus and commitment. Finding positives in life has become a ritual and essential task. Thankfully there have been a few opportunities to get out this year and so I've shared a few favorite mountain memories below.

Mike on the wonderfully exposed Bell's Variation finish to the Cumming-Crofton Route on the remote Bheinn a' Bhuird, Cairngorms 

Rafe seconding the fantastic sandstone corner on Central Buttress over in Coire Mhic Fherchair

Base camp in Coire Mhic Fherchair. Looks like paradise but was actually complete midge hell. 

Rafe getting in the groove on Primitive Dance (E2 5c), a classic Ardmair skin graft

A classic Scottish wild camping supper

Rafe on Black Gold, a superb slab climb down at Reiff

Rafe on the first pitch of Olympus on East Buttress in Coire Mhic Fherchair

The end of another day in the big mountain office. Climbing in the remote mountains of the west coast of Scotland really is one of the best life reset buttons out there. 

Approaching the majestic triple buttress in golden hour



Rafe on the first pitch of Groovin' High on Far East Buttress. One of the best E1s you'll find anywhere.

More steep far east buttress action

Just as we settled down for dinner and bedtime, so were the midges


Route 2, Diabeg. Brilliant.

The friendly groove, a HVS traderoute at Ardmair. 



A photo of the author on Gun Furry (E2 5c) in the Thorntons Quarry. No stars in the book, but apart from the dirt and a tiny bit of loose rock it was actually a reasonable route

Ben on the second. Almost enjoying himself.


Trying to find the "poor belay" at the top of the only wet route in North Wales

Of course picking to climb a three pitch mountain E1 would only end one way...

Rafe being chased by the setting sun up the fantastic Lot's Groove (HVS 5a) on Glyder Fach

Burly welsh off-widths and blue skies

Rob climbing the steep groove of Guacho at Hawcraig. Probably one of the more enjoyable HVS in the central belt and nowhere near as loose as expected

Rob making short work of the classic Pain Pillar (VS 4c)

Seb following the wonderfully but grippingly exposed pitch of Whether Wall (VS 4c) on the Cobbler

Beautiful exposure on the headwall of the equally enjoyable Whither Wall. Climbed at the end of September in baking sunshine. At least it was on this side of the hill, must have felt below zero in the shade with a freezing wind.

Some climbers enjoying Punsters Crack in the autumn sunshine

Gregor enjoying the delights of Pathfinder (E1 5b) at Thorntons Quarry near Stirling. 


Guess thats all for now. Hopefully winter will start soon and then there will be some more interesting things to photograph and write about.