Ruining the onsight - a day in Coire An Lochain

Looking around Coire an Lochain to No.1 Buttress,
Should have brought the skis!

Coire An Lochain, the slightly lesser known counterpart of the famous 'northern cories', plays host to some of the best summer and winter lines in the northern Cairngorms. It's more renowned for its winter routes, which are often hard and steep due to the compact nature of the rock, however many of these lines are of such remarkable quality they also make worth-while summer outings. So really, a days rock climbing here could be construed as blowing the winter onsight, assuming that you're concerned by such formalities!!

After an hour of battling through a strong head wind we arrived in the shadow of No. 4 Buttress high in the Coires western corner. Thankfully it wasn't that windy up there, but the temperature must have still been pretty low as I almost considered climbing with gloves on!

The first and main pitch of Prore (VS) with the great corner
of Savage Slit to the left

The first route we opted for was the classic and bold Prore (VS 4c) which climbs the hanging arête next to Savage Slit. Some interesting (and a little run out) face climbing soon see you at the top of the corner by the lower off. Rather than using this one we were advised to use one just round to the right which avoids getting your ropes stuck in the block filling chimney. Top notch advice as the abseil is a corker too!

Looking down the main pitch of Prore with Caelan seconding

Caelan of the airy abseil from the lower off, its a full 50m but luckily we had 60s!
The lenticular clouds behind spelling out whats coming our way.

After that we did the outstanding Fallout Corner (VS 4b). A cheeky first pitch gets you to a cosy belay below a roof. The following pitch is an absolute cracker and is a fantastic bit of climbing. A final pitch up the corner continuation and a small chimney sees you again at the lower off.

The first pitch of Fallout Corner (VS 4b)

Looking round the roof and up the main pitch of Fallout Corner (VS 4b)
with Caelan leading.

Some of the many pegs on one of the belays on Fallout Corner

The final route, and the most classic of all was Savage Slit (S). This huge 50m chimney is a bit scratched from people scrapping up it with axes and crampons but its still an outstanding climb. For a bit of a laugh we decided to take up a size 6 Camelot with us, which I'm delighted to report we managed to place twice! The climbers of old must be turning in their graves!

Caelan seconding the linked first pitch of Savage Slit (S) 

Caelan leading the second pitch, refusing to get inside the chimney!
What fun he is missing! 

The correct way to tackle a chimney!

So some classic rock routes sent, but some winter on-sights blown! After the final abseil back to the base the heavens opened. I guess we were just having to good a day!

Just as the rain comes with the successfully placed size 6!

Chumps on Tour - The Scottish Odyssey

Through sheer luck a 4 day climbing holiday happened to coincide with the one of the driest summers to impact upon western Scotland. The usual promise of poor weather and tennis ball sized midges were blown out of the sky by the gift of high pressure. Clearly somebody wasn't doing their job right in the Met Office!

Day 1 - Centurion, Carn Dearg, Ben Nevis

The route we opted for was Centurion. So called because of the way the huge overlapping slabs resemble the armour plate of a Roman Centurion is a classic to end all classics. We left the car at 8 and with light legs we raced up to the CIC and then on to Carn Dearg in just over an hour however to our despair we still found somebody else at the base. A bunch of lads from Dundee University had beaten us to it but no worries - being British we joined the que and took an enforced lounge in the sun.

Carn Dearg on Ben Nevis, Centurion (HVS 5a) follows
the obvious central crackline for a full 200m

Rafe Topping out on the sensational second pitch

The thrutchy traverse on pitch 3 out above the void

Rafe breezing up Pitch 4 towards the sunshine

Half way up... Still a long way to go though!

The view accross to Tower Ridge from a chilly Carn Dearg

Rafe finding an intricate line towards the roofs 

The final overhanging wall that forms the last pitch

Classic one slain by the chumps.. Worth every star!

Nigel leading the final pitch though the overhangs

The route had everything from steep cracks to delicate slab climbing. We swapped leads the entire way hoping the route would never end! After several hours we reached where it terminates at ledge route. Regardless of the weather the rest of the trip, this one route had made the boys holiday a success!

We followed up our victory with drinking pints until close in the Clachaig then thanking there resilience of putting up with our bad odour by camping in their beer garden.

Day 2 - Unicorn, Stob Corie Nan Lochan

Undoubtedly the hardest walk-in was made no easier by an apparent lack of wind and an abundance of 30 degree heat. After sweating away we eventually reach the corie and got our first glimpse of the route.

Tramping it chump style and getting geared up for another epic day!

The mighty south buttress of Stob Corie Nan Lochan, Unicorn (E1 5b) climbs directly
up the obvious central chimney

No expense was spared fuelling the boys

 First climbed by the death seeking legend thats Jimmy Marshall in the 60s, the huge vertical corner dissects the whole of the south buttress and has to be one of the greatest natural lines anywhere. The big problem is getting to the base of the route! A precursor to the route is to 'scramble' up hanging gardens up crumbling rock and would probably be an 'earthy' VS if it were in Wales.

Rafe being baked on the thrutchy first pitch. 

Rafe led up the first 5b pitch which was a 'delicate-thrutch' or however that works. From there an invisible foot ledge is reached where a hanging belay is held before the outstanding second pitch. More jamming than a Bob Marley gig. The third pitch is the closest you'll ever get to climbing a Jenga tower but is wickedly exposed and super steep.

Usually you have to bust open the ice before you can swim in a river
in Glen Coe

After a massive walk out a swim in the river was the only option (if nothing else just to relive the smell). End another 12 hour day.

Day 3 - Bludgers Revelation, Slime Wall, The Buachaille

The face of Slime Wall, high on the side of Buachallie plays host to some of the Glen's most formidable climbs such as Shibboleth (E2 5c) and also Raven's Gully (HVS 5a - apparently the hardest gully in the UK!). Being slightly hungover we settled with the all time classic Bludgers Revelation HVS 5a.

Slime Wall on the side of Buachille Etive Mor in Glen Coe,
a week into a drought and its still moist!

Another classic route crafted by Jimmy Marshall from two previous routes by Walsh and made famous by the BBC series 'The Edge' http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSVPZVRD920. This menacing route climbs a genius line through some seriously impressive territory and is no place for clowns but we thought we'd give it a bash anyway.

The approach to this climb is even harder than the previous days. To get to the base first you have to climb to just below the final towers of Great Gully Ridge. After that a loose traverse must be made into upper Great Gully then up steep and loose ground the base of Raven's Gully. The hangover had defiantly be sweated out by the time we were stood at the bottom.

Exposed climbing on the upper pitches of Bludgers Revelations (HVS 5a)
with a party on Shibboleth behind.

The first pitch breaks out across the face and above the ever-growing void to a neat belay below by some blocks. The second pitch is up the steep, wet crack. Its hard but is probably the best protected pitch on the whole route. The 'link' pitch then herds you up some steep slabs around a corner past a few holds which need probably need trundling.

Rafe at the top with the whole world at his feet

Some confusion regarding correct belay position left Rafe stranded high but with the execution of some beyond-the-average-clown ropework he got to the right place safety. The graduation from chumps to clowns was almost complete. The next pitch is a total sandbag at 4c and traverses straight out across the void on flat holds with very spaced gear. Eventually the big hollow flake of revelation is reached which allows for enough relaxation to realize you have indeed shit yourself but thoughts like that can wait for the belay..

Climbers on the final exposed pitch of Shibboleth (E2 5c), truly the greatest
rock climb on the planet!

The next and final pitch has a few short lived hard moves above the biggest drop you've ever seen but easy ground is soon reached. We got down too late to find food so we drank beer and ate cake before we pitched tent in the pub beer garden for the 3rd night running.

Day 4 - The Hammer, Glen Etive Slabs

Could it really happen? Could we really have a good day on what's rumoured to be the most fickle venue in Scotland?! Well we got there in bright sunny haze, with not a midge to be found anywhere.

Looking up Etive Slabs. The huge swathe of compact slabs
lie at a mere 40 degree angle but the odd overlap provide some entertainment 

 Even with high psyche, the weight of heavy gear, tired legs and 3 days worth of drinking and poor diet meant we were reduced to a crawl to the coffin stone at the base of the crag.

Looking down the crux pitch as the rain moves in.. Time to get the hell off! 

The crag is very confusing to start with - the routes appear to start about a pitch of the ground which we thought just wouldn't happen somewhere like The Grit..

Friction climbing on granite slabs in the rain.. Sod that! Bail time!

After an interesting downwards traverse across gearless slabs yarding on hanging gardens we got to the base and nipped up the first pitch. Still dry. Still no midges. Rafe led the second pitch and found loads of gear. We must have been on the wrong crag - What were all these punters moaning about?! I geared up for the next pitch. 5a moves miles above gear. Starts to rain as I get committed. No way i'm downclimbing so bash on to the belay - absolute downpour. Shit. Bail on rusting pegs. Midges. Still smiling! We'll be back! Favour was no longer smiling on the boys. So we left. But we havn't forgotten!

Thanks Rafe for coming to visit. The chumps from Aberystwyth came, saw and conquered. If you want adventure, look no further than north of the boarder!

Fingers Ridge Direct

Did a quick sunny afternoon jaunt up Fingers Ridge Direct (VS 4c) in Coire an T'sneachda. The route is a less than direct more opposing line to the classic winter line of Fingers Ridge. It climbs blank slabs directly up the granite pillar connecting with the normal route just below the 'fingers'.

High on the 3rd Pitch of Fingers Ridge Direct VS 4c

The final 4b pitch before the main route is joined with the fingers
on the skyline

Looking back down to Jim and Dave enjoying an unusually sunny belay in the Cairngorms

Jim negotiating the shattered ridge approaching the 'fingers'

 

Dave on the winter crux of Fingers Ridge normal just after the tower

 Thanks to Dave and especially Jim for providing a few of the photos.

The Towers of Rain

Due to its altitude, location and length of routes, the north face of Ben Nevis can be a serious undertaking. This in mind many of the classic routes are merely scrambles of Diff to VDiff standard so with a poor forecast we decided to give the most classic of all the classics a bash - Tower Ridge. 

A rather snowy approach.. considering its July!

The weather was cold, wet and very misty! After running to the CIC hut we had a brief look at the map and plunged ourselves into the mist and launched up the hillside. Out of nowhere the way was barred by a huge rock wall of the Douglas Boulder. We tackled this round the side up a snow filled gully where we were squeezed between ice and the rock face we stopped the gully and started the route.

Moving up the 'little tower' through the mist

The weather was cold, wet and very misty! After running to the CIC hut we had a brief look at the map and plunged ourselves into the mist and launched up the hillside. Out of nowhere the way was barred by a huge rock wall of the Douglas Boulder. We tackled this round the side up a snow filled gully where we were squeezed between ice and the rock face we stopped the gully and started the route.

Jed on the exposed traverse below the Great Tower

The steep and slippery chockstone chimney

Several wet pitches on the steeper stuff and some moving together (and a quick chat with mountain rescue who were up there rescuing a stranded party) we eventually reached the (in)famous tower gap. This is a narrowing in the ridge and a awkward down climb just below the summit tower. Usually you'd be able to see a drop of hundreds of feet but instead today we had a apparently bottomless drop into a white nothingness, made all the more interesting with the film of water and grease on all the holds! 

A rather eairy tower gap below the final summit tower

After negotiating this and one or two more pitches up slippery slabs we reached the top and the world and his wife!

Looking back of the corie after the descent, typically the weather has started to clear!

Same old Sneachda

Some rare sunshine in the Northern Cories

A few evenings ago some fine evening sunshine lured me back into Coire an t'Sneachda. The last time I climbed there on an evening after work it was lovely and sunny (and sweaty!) on the walk-in but it was raining by the time fingers touched rock. This time I was hoping it would be different!

The first pitch of Damnation

Our target was a fantastic looking corner we'd seen when abseiling off The Magic Crack (HVS 5a) on Aladdin's Buttress called Damnation (HVS/E1 5b - depending what guide you look in!). The start was clambering over slabs and up corners which Caelen swarmed up which put us directly below the corner. This is where he had a chat with two guys on an adjacent climb who didn't know what route they were on but decided it should be called 'epic' which was comforting..

Moving up towards the sweeping corner on the second pitch

From the belay you can see the initial slab and groove but the steep corner remained up and out of sight. It looked pretty dry and only have one or two wet bits so I decided to give it a go (not noticing the sun had vanished from the sky at that point). After 20m of climbing in the groove you reach the corner and then the fight begins. After a move or two you end up just above a rusty peg. Some hard moves using mud filled holds and 'yarding on slopers' sees you through the hard bit and eventually the top. Excellent!

Looking up the crux corner of Damnation

Shortly after getting to the top in characteristic Scottish style the heavens opened so we decided to abseil off. Some how, the ropes got stuck, and what ensued was an hour of desperate effort in the pouring rain before they eventually yielded and we got down and back to the car. Totally soaked. Same old Sneachda 

The Swords of Gideon

Spent the weekend over on The Applecross Peninsula. The tiny village of Applecross itself is tucked away on the far side of the highest mountain pass in the UK just about clinging to existence. Its on of the most stunning drives you'll find anywhere in the world (that must explain the hordes of bikers at least!).

Looking out from the south side of Sgurr a'Chaorachain

As far as climbing is concerned the centre-piece is the Cioch Nose on Sgurr a'Chaorachain. This huge VDiff is a massive undertaking and defiantly on the bucket list! Instead we opted for something a bit quicker and did the Tom Patey classic - Swords of Gideon. This 5 pitch mountain VS is rather unusual as it may sit at an altitude of 600m but is in fact only a 5 minute walk from the road!

Just after the 'delicate' traverse on the second pitch

The central pitches are absolutely fantastic and you wouldn't feel short changed even if you had walked the normal amount for a route of similar situation and character! Definatly worth the minor detour if you have time (and the weather!).

The crag in all its glory showing just how close to the road it is!

Applecross on a sunny day looking towards the Black Cullin