Sea Stack Sickness

Sea stack climbing is a branch of climbing entirely devoted to the surmounting of rock plinths isolated from the main land by the sea - not to be confused with rock pinnacles which are attached to land such as Napes Needle or the Bell Tower outside the Aber Uni Student Union. Its probably considered by many to be a bit of an esoteric outing where loose rock, sketchy abseils and guano is all part of the package and where failure will result not only the dampening of dignity but also a soggy chalk ball.

The Old Man of Stoer is one of Scotlands most iconic sea stacks, The original route climbs up the middle from the base up to the right flank then onto the top and its only VS!

England and Wales have there fair share of stacks such as the Devil's Chimney on Lundy or the great red sandstone towers of Ladram Bay however, its no secret that the best stacks are in Scotland. With over 245 recorded stacks out of the ~300 recorded in total for the UK, Scotland is definitely the hub for this masochistic sport. And like all sports, sea stack climbing has its hero. Just like Gandhi was the hero for peace and Nigel Farage was the hero for nutters, Dr Tom Patey was the hero for Sea Stacks.

Often refereed to as Doctor Stack, Tom Patey climbed many of the Scottish stacks by their most popular routes during the late 60s and even made a televised ascent of The Old Man of Hoy (not technically a sea stack but we'll let this one slide..) with Bonners in 1966. Apparently his ascents were often famous for being characterized by lengthy swims, massive hang overs and usually finishing by abseiling down an accordion.

Nowdays many of these stacks have multiple routes on right through the grade range all the way to E6 6a and beyond. The tale of John Arran and Dave Turnbull driving the bold and terrifying line of The Orkneying Saga up the Old Man of Hoy is a great read and reminds me why I'll never bother to climb E6!

The crux 5a moves on Original Route involve jaming, yarding, grunting - everything you'd expect really for a Scottish VS!

Having completed 2 stacks now I feel like I have definitely caught some kind of Sea Stack Sickness. Its seems that Doctor Stack took the cure to his grave but I'm sure I'll have fun trying to find out more for myself on all of the other aquatically isolated esoteric outings around our coastline!

Getting down is certainly the easy bit

Its getting there and back which is the hard bit!

A few of these photos are Rafe's so thanks for letting me use them! 

Alpine Foray

Managed to squeeze in some 'alpism' this summer with a quick trip over to Chamonix Mont Blanc. An early attempt on anything out the Cosmiques Refuge was thwarted by some summer storms resulting in a rapid retreat down the midi lift. Later that week the weather stabled up and with a fresh sprinkling of snow we went back up the mountain to find calm, blue skies.

Looking down into the gloom. Emma still managing a smile though!!

Looking up the snow arete towards the midi station with the weather closing in

After catching the first lift and seeing such fantastic conditions we opted for the Pointe Lachenal Traverse (AD) which is a small, mildly technical ridge that sits below the impressive Triangle du Tucal Face in the Mont Blanc Massif. There was a bit of fresh snow which added to the excitement and meant there was actually some patches of ice in the 4a chimney but otherwise was a grand expedition!

Even though it took the three of us a while to do the route we made it to the base of the route 45 minutes faster than the guide time and got back to the midi even quicker. Celebratory beers were well deserved!

Dad and Jed walking in perfect conditions on the upper Valley Blanche. The lower peaks on the left side of the image is the Pointe Lachenal Traverse

Looking along the ridge of the lower peak of Point Lachenal with the Grandes Jorasses in the backdrop

Dad scrambling up the final section of the mixed 4a chimney up to the main summit

Looking at the ques back along the traverse. Good thing we got the first lift up!

Sacrosanct

Sanctuary Wall in all its glory! Copyright Justin Timms

I couldn't belive it! Another wonderful forecast for a Saturday! Unbroken spells of bright sunshine and highs of 23 degrees centigrade. Clearly the chief scientist at the Met Office was on holiday over that weekend. Let’s hope not in Cornwall, as Bodmin Moor’s tarmac snake has got its static metal scales on this summer since the Council decided to dig half the road up. We decided on a stay-cation. Torquay to be precise. Once described as the jewel of the South West.

Since adventurous Ed was enlisted we opted to push the boat out and go for something a bit more exciting than the usual well traveled 3 star classic. Sacrosanct is at HVS, the easiest way up Sanctuary Wall. I say easiest because the whole crag overhangs its base by 10m and mainly plays host to routes providing strength sapping near death experiences. You’d think something so loose would just fall over?

Looking at the line of Sacrosanct (HVS 5a) and the rest of Sanctuary Wall. The route climbs from the top of the triangular pinnacles left across the wall into the gully then breaks out right again across a slab before finishing up the overhanging crack. 

After a DWS to the start from Anstey’s Cove we climbed up to the start of the route on a ledge 30 feet above the sea. The first pitch is either 4c or 5a depending on which book you look in. It entails a short traverse on less than generous jugs out across the grossly overhanging wall but at least it has a rusty peg for comfort. So off Ed went across the wall without the slightest hesitation and off he disappeared round a corner onto a ‘good belay ledge’ that turned out to be mostly overhanging vegetation. Still, there was an ace rusty peg to belay so not all was lost.

After a nut clenching second I perched on the ledge and we swapped some gear (except I left him with the size 4 Camelot as frankly, I think it’s becoming a bad omen). The next pitch was a traverse across a slab to a little ledge perched on the edge of oblivion before a safe but super steep strength sapping crack. Crimp, haul, lunge, yard, disco legs, choss, gardening, made it!

The steep second pitch of Sarcosanct (HVS 5a). Copyright Pete Saunders.

Ed reckoned pitch 2 was harder than pitch one but I think he’s wrong. Perhaps it’s because he was carrying the size 4! Either way it's an ace route, but don't tell everyone that.. 

Later that day soloing The Plimsoll Line (S0/1) down at Meadfoot Quarry.

Hurlstone Point

Hurstone Point has got to be Exmoors answer to the Culm Coast. With an isolated and adventurous atmosphere its well worth a visit! Although we only had time for the one route as we went for a post-work foray I'll definitely be heading back.

FYI some of the top stakes are in an extremely sorry state and for some routes I'd imagine that belays are almost entirely dependent on these so watch out! When I grabbed one the top snapped off!

Emma seconding the fantastically positioned Coastguard Slab (VS 4b)

A weekend on sunshine

I met this weekend with my dear old friend Fred Morgan and spent the weekend adventuring down at Chair Ladder in West Penwith - definitively one of my most favorite crags I've been to this year - sunshine, ice cream, grassy car park, free hose pipe - what more could you want!

After a leisurely start due to post birthday celebration hang-over and a bout of jet lag (as Fred is from Wales...) we headed straight for one of my major objectives for 2015 - Diocese (VS 5a). This route is possibly one of the most celebrated VS climbs in the west country and i've been told on multiple occasions is a total spanker for VS.

We decided we'd abseil down the approach to terriers tooth on its eastern side which is the next-buttress-down from where Diocese was. When we got to the tooth we found a series of ropes set up on the western side down a gully and a group of Falmouth climbers about to descend another climbers rope. As we were talking with the girls left at the top we heard a cry for help from somebody on the abseil. The rope that they were using (which wasn't theirs) had frayed on an edge and was actually worn through to the core! After some scrambling about we passed another rope (not ours..) down to him.

After this eventful start we dropped down Fred's 100m static (yes you read right 100m) and descended to the base of the cliff. Even though I thought I had tied up a reasonable amount at the top we still had enough at the bottom to have done the abseil again!

The first pitch of Diocese (VS 5a) at Chair Ladder. Copyright Kernow Coasteering website.

The climb itself is located around the corner from the abseil on Bishop's Buttress, one of the biggest granite faces in the region. It climbs a striking natural line up a widening corner to below a huge roof before traversing off left and snaking round up onto the upper head-wall in as many as 4 pitches. I knew from discussion with various people that the first pitch was going to probably be the hardest even though ironically its not the most technical as it's only 4c...

So off I went and before long was at the base of the wide overhanging corner crack, if you got some big cams or a hex you can get a good placement prior to entry which marginally comforted my harrowed disposition.

What followed next was 20 minutes of swearing, gurning and general battling up the chimney at the loss of most of the skin on my knees and elbows. When I eventually emerged I felt like I'd had a fight with Mike Tyson and lost. Sprawled on the ledge beneath the roof I brought Fred up who managed to lay-back up the whole thing! Bastard!

The next pitch was the 'crux' 5a pitch which comprises of a delicate and exposed traverse below the monster roof. The hardest moves are literally just getting established on the wall after stepping off the belay and aren't protectable unless you put a massive cam up high in the roof crack (which we didn't have) but after a few delicate and memorable moves you reach some good gear. From there on its yarding on jugs all the way to a brilliantly exposed semi-hanging stance where the route joins Flannel Avenue (HS 4b). The next two pitches up the head-wall are pleasant enough and don't have any real difficulties. Definitely the best route I've done at Chair Ladder so far!

Fred sea kayaking past Logan Head near Porthcurno

It could be 'The Med' thinks Fred! That or he's dropped his Go Pro..

The next day we took the kayaks out for a spin from Porthgwara and headed over towards Porthcurno and Logan Head. En-route saw seals, fish, an RAF bloke get dropped on a rock and we even stopped off at the nudist beach to make a cup of tea! 

With time against us we nipped back to Chair Ladder and did one of the more famous easy lines, Helluva Slab (S 4b), a brilliant route up a huge pinnacle overlooking Porthgwara and the bay beyond. Needless to say I got horrifically sun burnt and have spent as much as I did on the whole weekend away on after-sun lotion.. Ops!

Fred seconding the fantastic first pitch of Helluva Slab (HS 4b). 

Grumpy Guts

It was a beautiful day. The sun was pouring through a cloudless sky, its searing edge softened by a cool south westerly breeze. On days like this the cliffs of Chair Ladder really are one of the West Country's finest sea cliff granite venues.

Emma high on South Face Direct (VS 4c) with a lot of air beneath her feet!

We had abseiled down East Chimney to go and do South Face Direct (VS 4c), one of the cliffs most popular lines. I had a 60m abseil rope in place which I tied off around a large block using a stoppered bowline knot. Bomb proof. If I had a mother-in-law, I'd happily hang her off it!

As we were climbing the 2nd pitch a couple arrived at the top and started to hola down at Emma, who was belaying lower down. I assumed they were just asking if they could use our abseil rope - at that point it formed part of the belay (tied off to make it easier to pull up at the end), but Emma was just moving off anyway so wouldn't have been a problem.. 

The lady starting shouting at Emma and it sounded as if she was asking if the first pitch was clear of the sea as they were hoping to do the same route as us. Communication over the 40m between them was challenging not only because of the wind but also the deafening roar of the crashing sea below. For this very reason Emma and I had been using walkie talkies (a bit gay I know but trust me it works!). Emma struggled to interpret what she was saying over the roar and it became clear that this hugely frustrated the women who began to shout louder. This wasn't fair or justified for three reasons;

1) By coming to a tidal sea cliff venue you'd expect the party to have checked the tide times. If they had done this then they would know the tide was well on its way out. Also, we were half way up the route! Assuming they had to check the tide times they would know that since we were half way up the base was likely to be clear.

2) The guidebook (Rockfax, The CC guide and South West Climbs) clearly states that in high tide conditions the route can be easily reached at the top of the first pitch on a large, comfortable ledge adjacent to the abseil.

3) Most importantly, your safety is your responsibility. If you can't see the base of the cliff and you're not happy about climbing back up the rope if the route is inaccessible then go somewhere else. 

The women's attitude didn't even put a blip on the day as it was all but forgotten after Emma seconded the outstanding second 4c pitch up the steep crack which has got to be one of the best at its grade in the South West.

The crux pitch of South Face Direct (VS 4c).

My irritation lies with their grumpiness. I like climbers. We are usually a good bunch. It's a shame that some people feel the need to get so wound up and frustrated so needlessly in such an inspiring place. If you're reading this - the shop in Porthgwara does great ice cream. Perhaps have one of those before you come climbing next time!

No Stress! A climber finishing the crux pitch of Aerial (VS 4c) on a stunning day at Chair Ladder.

Deliberate Lethargy

It’s been a slow start to 2015 so far. Some would say that starting a new job, helping with 10 Tors training and competing in a 100 mile marathon is actually to some extent rather fruitful. However to me, all this extracurricular has greatly repressed my time out on the rock. This combined with a couple of rained off trips as well as intermittent bouts of non-existent motivation I’m starting to think maybe I need to splash out on a jet ski or a road bike as they can both be used in the rain. Then I remember I still owe the tax man and various banks 4 years’ worth of drinking money so I should probably square that up first. I’ve had a few positives this year though like having an article published on UKClimbing.com and so far successfully managing to give up mayonnaise for my new year’s resolution! Talk about a challenge! 

My main objective for this year was to try and tick all of the rock routes in the ‘South West’ chapter of the book ‘Classic Rock’ and so far it’s going really well – only Piton Route in Avon Gorge left to do! The routes, for the most part, have all been really worthwhile and are generally well deserving of their 'classic' status.

To be honest - most of the routes are a little bit outdated and most venues usually have better-quality-similar-graded-equivalents. For instance, at Chair Ladder Pegasus is definitely better than Pendulum Chimney and again at The Dewerstone Central Grooves is a total belter when compared to Climbers Club Ordinary. From the ones I've climbed in Scotland this wasn't so much the case but is especially true with the routes I've ticked from 'Hard Rock' and 'Extreme Rock' which have all been jaw-droppingly fantastic!

Whilst i'm trying to get all these routes ticked I'm also trying my hand at photography - I still only have a compact camera but it seems to have loads of settings so i'm hoping there has been an improvement. On so many occasions climbing has taken me to some impressive vistas yet my inability to take a descent photo makes a picture of the inside of a static caravan look more interesting. It still seems to be a lot of pictures of helmets and bums at the moment but I think they are gradually getting better! I've put a couple of my favorites from this year so far below.

1. Taken from Gavel Fell in Lake District looking over towards Buttermere and the Sca Fell Range with a sky full of air craft contrails. I think it demonstrates well how such a seemingly wild landscape is still influenced so much by humans!

2. A photo of Adam Bloch seconding the middle pitch of the Bosigran Classic - Little Brown Jug. It really looks like Bosigran is 'in bloom' in this one.

3. I know! Another Photo of Adam! This time he is seconding the crux pitch of Pegasus at Chair Ladder. The sharpness of the photo and the contrast of the dark rock with the blue sea is great.

4. Last photo of Adam I promise! He's seconding the crux pitch of Aerial at Chair Ladder. Its a super exposed pitch and in this instance we had a ranging sea echoing beneath us. I think the ledge we were sharing with the black back gulls and their nest was still more scary!

5. Post storm crossing to Brodick on Arran. It's supposedly too far south to succumb to the grips of Winter but this definitely didn't appear to be the case when we traveled there over Easter. 

6. Sneaking in some climbing in between the showers. This is a photo of Sol Armer climbing the rarely repeated Dogleg on South Slabs in Glen Rosa. If only you could see his hands and feet, you'd be able to see the invisible holds!

7. A snowy Goatfell from Cnoc Brec. I like the color of the lethargic sky set against the white dusting of snow with the contrast of the brown, dead grass in the foreground. And of course the perched erratic boulder! 

8. Springtime at Oldwalls. This photo was taken from the base of Matchless on the culm coast looking south through the spray. It definitely aids in the understanding of the isolation of this venue.

9. Ski touring on Creag Meagaidh. It really was a winter wonderland up there this year. Dave in the distance definitely helps give the place a bit of scale!

10. Emma seconding Doorpost at Bosigran in the morning light. Believe it or not the ocean is actually that color and I haven't just cranked up the contrast! West Penwith is an amazing venue and is probably the best in the West!

Any feedback would be much appreciated. For some reason when you upload photos to Blogger it adjusts the contrast of the photos so some of them are a touch more saturated than they should be. Hopefully I'll be able to get some more shots later this year and at the same time get my big-rock-route-day-out climbing fix.