Huntly's Cave

It turns out that the Scottish Highlands are not only the home of mega multi-pitch mountain crags, but also hosts some of the finest rock outcrops the UK has to offer as well. An example of one these is Huntly's Cave found just outside of Grantown-on-Spey. This fine cliff offers routes of between 10 to 30m on steep blocky schist with plentiful holds and gear (most of the time!).

The upper right hand wall area, steep and juggy is the order of the day!

 As it was only a quick session after work we only managed 3 routes but they were all fantastic! Will led the first pitch of Diagonal (VS 4c) but then decided he'd stretch the ropes and do the second pitch as well! There goes my warm up!

Double Overhang HVS 5a (taken from gaz-softrock.blogspot.com)

 After that I led the classic of the crag Double Overhang (HVS 5a) of which the line is self explanatory really!

Will leading Diagonal Direct (E1 5c)

Only time for one more route in the now light drizzle and fading light. Will repeated Diagonal Direct (E1 5c) of which the crux is burling through a roof using finger jams..AWESOME.

Cold hands and well laid plans

This weekend for me marked the return of the craggin' season! Since everything in Scotland is mostly covered in snow a cheeky trip south of the boarder was required. The forecast was not initially that great which meant everything was nicely saturated.. But to keep it interesting we ditched the E grades and opted for the mountains!

Day 1 - A rainy day in Langdale; Pavey Ark via Cresent Climb and Gwynne's Chimney

The alpine-esque start of Crescent Climb on Pavey Ark, Langdale

The gopping first pitch of Gwynne's Chimney

Day 2 - The big one! A massive day out in a belter of a spot; Grey Crags, Buttermere.

 Big drops, numb fingers and a long walk-in defiantly made this a grand day out!  

Ascending the easy slabs of Chockstone Buttress

Emma willing the sunshine to move a bit closer!!

The 3rd Pitch of Slabs Ordinary (VD)

Oxford and Cambridge Buttress, of whom's stunning central arête (Oxford Cambridge Buttress Direct) is an absolute must do!

Surmounting the bulge on the second pitch of Oxford Cambridge Buttress Direct (HS)

The quadruplet of buttresses of Grey Crags, 8 pitches of climbing totaling
 over 200m of superb mountain rock climbing on 3 buttresses, and not a single wet hold!

Day 3 - Troutdale Pinnacle and Sargent Crag Slabs

On the 4th Pitch just below the pinnacle (yes that is blue sky!!!)

Now that's what you call a belay. 

Looking down from the top of the route to the pinnacle itself, quite possibly the coolest route in The Lake District!

After this excursion we headed over to Sargent Crag Slabs and had a play on Lakeland Cragsman (HVS 5a) which is awesome.. So good infact we forgot to crack out the camera!

Stag Rocks

Went out with the aim of climbing the 3* classic Afterthough Arete (III) on Stag Rocks in Glen Avon the other day. Due to the still extensive snow cover I opted to ski tour over Cairngorm and ski down into Corie Raiberit. The snow was hard and icey but its coverage was almost total. No rock dodging, no grass patch veering, no intricate line required. Just point and go! Made even better by the absolutely cloudless skies..

After leaving the skis at the top of Stag Rocks I descended Diagonal Gully and at the base looked up at the obvious arete feature on the west side of the gully and guessed that was the way. After noticing the lack of worn rock and quite tough start I realized in my enthusiasm I had failed to read the guide properly (which was conveniently in the car!) and I was infact, on the wrong ridge.. I had by accident climbed up Serrated Rib (III). Ops!

 

The Northern Cories catching the last of the Sun

Ah well, not quite a 'Scottish classic' but good in the sunshine. The sunset from the top of spot height 1141m made up for the minor route deviation though!
    

Sunset from SH 1141m just before the descent in Coire Cas

Sunshine somewhere

 From what I hear its been a rather nice day in the south. In fact in Devon its meant to 'ave bin bleddy 'ansome. Meanwhile in Scotland.. Stormy and warm!

 The big thaw has begun. So I decided to make the most of the snow while its still here and get out and do some ski touring. Only last week you could ski right out of the Cairngorm Mountain car park, I have to lug all the gear up to Corie An Lochain before there was anything near enough to skin up on.

 Looking over at Buttresses 1, 2 and 3 in Lochain from the West. The big 'crevasse' can be seen below which are indicative of the full depth avalanches that regularly occur in that part of corie! At least this warm weather might get rid of some of the biblically proportioned cornices baring access to the face routes.

The approach from Cairn Lochain to Ben Macdui was on hard snow with thick mist for most of the way. Skiing with a compass in one hand is defiantly an acquired technique (and no I still haven't acquired it yet!) made all the more interesting when the only things visible to use as bearing features is the odd Ptarmigan.

 The Summit of Ben Macdui. There is a shelter under there somewhere! 

 Looking over into the Loch Avon basin at a still winter-locked Carn Etchachan and Shelterstone Crag whilst being buffeted above Hell's Lum. At least I finally got a view!

  Clouds coming down and the wind is picking up. The weather closing in again at spot height 1141m. 

 Time for some descent decent! Looking back up at spot height 1141m before dropping into upper Corie Cas above the ski resort.

 After skirting the steepest corniced section I then dropped down into the Corie. Almost feel sorry for the people on the tows!

Another cracking day. Just not quite as warm as the rest of the UK it would seem!

The Scottish Alps

This is a collection of photos from today when I traversed one of Scotland's most spectacular ridges, The Aonach Eagach. So I got up early, found I was the first on the ridge after a whole dumping of fresh snow with a few only hours weather window during the morning to snatch an ascent. Rather than write a load of stuff about what happened here are some photos!

The early rays of morning light up the depths of Glen Coe

Looking down the Aonach Eagach from Am Bodach through the gloom

Looking back up at decent down Am Bodach (fence post for scale)

The start of "The Pinnacles" from Meal Dearg

Its a long way down!

After one of the difficult pinnacle steps, looking back up Glen Coe

One of the many narrow sections of the ridge, lots of air beneath your feet!

Solitude and untrodden snow and even some sunshine

Looking west towards Stob Corie Laith

Almost Alpine.
The crux chimney with Stob Corie Laith beyond

Looking up the steep, buried chimney. Perfect snow! 

Looking east along the ridge. The tiny dots are the people who should have
got up earlier!

The Aonach Eagach with Ranoch Moor beyond

Still breaking trail, still empty west of Stob Corie Laith

Looking back along the frozen ridge

Proof that the sun does shine in Scotland on a Saturday

The view from The Pap of Glencoe, not quite as snowy but a great
end to a great day