Moonraker, Berry Head

Rob lounging in the sunshine at the base of The Great Cave below Moonraker (HVS 5a), Berry Head

Having just moved down from Scotland I was worried I may not find the same inspiration to go climbing as I did up north with its abundance of mountain crags, so I needed something special to re-knew my excitement to be back in sunny Devon! Luckily we had a cunning plan! The Old Redout at Berry Head is amongst the finest sea cliff venues you'll find anywhere in the Southwest. It’s limestone precipices cascading into the turquoise ocean exclusify access to all but the most intrepid explorer so this seemed like the ideal proposition to re-knew some psyche. The pièce de résistance of the areas lithological architecture is of course the Great Cave, a seemingly impenetrable series of monstrous roofs as overhung as they are high. For some this presents the Southwests ultimate challenge and is the ideal proving ground for skill, stamina and probably considerable lunacy! Merely the names of the routes here can’t help but excite the imagination; Caveman, Dreadnought, The Lip Trip. For the mentally stable there are more conceivable alternatives the most celebrated of which is of course Pat Littlejohn and Pete Biven’s 1967 route; Moonraker (HVS 5a) which provides an excellent vantage point to view the afformented lines however the rout itself is no pushover. It climbs the initial overhanging wall via a long traverse and then drives a central line straight up the cliff for over 100 feet to the top and is more adventurous than Ranulph Fiennes with blank cheque book courtesy of the Government!

Rob making the arduous traverse out of the cave above the sea
over to the starting ledge of Moonraker

I’ve heard you can abseil to the bottom, however you have to remember to kick out and generate some perpetual motion otherwise you’re left dangling above the ocean faced with either a long climb back up or a swim! The more favoured way is round the side where a descent path leads through a gate and down a steep grassy slope until you reach a small rocky bay at the top of the cliff. Rather alarmingly from the off you’re confronted with a particularly steep looking blind step which marks the start of the traverse into the Great Cave. We lowered ourselves gingerly round very conscious of the 30 foot drop into the sea and eventually landed on the slabs below the jaw dropping Great Cave which loomed overhead. We sat and worked the impossible looking lines which dissect it before turning our attention to the equally impossible looking Moonraker. Tracing its line up the through cracks and over guano covered ledges makes for an intimidating exercise but essential none the less!

Making the strenuous traverse out toward the hanging crack
on the first pitch of Moonraker. Photo from Rob

From here we had to scramble to the back of the cave then hand traverse out along its overhanging wall on bucket sized holds. Easy right? Well it would be if it wasn't for the dazzling light as you exit the cave and all the bucket holds being filled with sea water! After some grunting and burling we eventually reached a large ledge clinging desperately to the base of the overhanging cliff and got ready for it all to step up a gear!

The second pitch of Moonraker high over the swishing tide by now! Photo from Rob

I then led the traverse out and up above the calm sea lapping at the cliff. The exposure is incredible as you move up the steepening wall to a tough move past a peg to the base of a crack. Because I had laced the lower section with some much gear I was quite pumped when I got to the overhanging crack but the holds are big and I managed to find a rest. After the crack a quick skip across the sopping hanging slab I reached the belay. Rob then raced up wondering why I was fannying about so much! Rob then led the next small 4c pitch up to a wonderful ledge belay below the final corner pitch. Crux led, I was quite happy to let him have the corner pitch as well which he danced up with no bother. The last pitch is outstanding climbing in a sensational position with a couple of ‘thinky’ moves with great gear . I defiantly regretted letting him have that one but hey I guess I'll have to go back! The route is truly deserving of its legendary status and kudos to anybody that climbed it in big boots and breeches using a hemp rope and wooden wedges!

    

Cold Climbs

It's properly winter now. The Coca-cola advert is on TV and the first Christmas songs are already starting to make an inappropriate appearance on the radio. Sacrilegious. Anybody that starts buying presents before December 23rd is probably over-prepared in my opinion! Anyway! Winter also means that getting outside to satisfy my obsession is hampered by limited day light and slow drying rock. This usually means dreams of adding sought after Extreme graded routes to this years 'ticked list' slowly fade away into drizzle clad nightmares.

That route will just have to wait for next year...

Making the long trip to the crag and finding your desired line with a big dank stain of icy water dripping down through it is somewhat disheartening. Only the most ambitious masochists will be undeterred and this was especially evident on a recent trip to the Grit which was blighted by freezing fog and heavy overnight rain. After walking over to Froggart through the drizzle and finding seemingly every route totally soaking it looked like the day was going to be a total write off... Until we spotted the chimney! It would be a waste of a nice day to do such an awful route on a sunny one so really this was the ideal opportunity to give it a bash.

Ed Tonkin busting a gut on English Overhang (VS 4c).
 His t-shirt was white before he started! (Photo credit Mike Stewart)

Reaching for the surface! Shortly before this I had to take my harness off
to fit through the final squeeze!

Ian Stevens reconsidering his priorities in life.

The route of choice was called 'English Overhang' and is most defiantly deserving of its VS (very severe) status! After undercutting a rotting flake with numb fingers one had to launch up the constricting chimney of whom's walls were covered with a fine veneer of green slime (as well as an inch of water). Apart from the obvious sacrifice of skin and dignity it was actually quite an interesting route! Day saved!

The other option at this time of year is of course just to go for a lower grade. Frozen fingers and a weak sun are usually enough to convince most to climb below HVS. However thankfully there are a whole host of routes of where their low grade does not dampen their appeal even slightly. Demo Route (HS 4b) located in the far reaches of western Cornwall is possibly one of the best routes on Granite you'll find anywhere and is a great example of this. Its got it all; from steep face climbing to overhangs and even a cheeky chimney! Its always a pleasure and gets better and better every time I climb it!

Pulling through the overhand on the superb Demo Route (HS 4b)

Jed seconding up the preliminary flakes

Getting stuck in on my favourite type of climbing

Finishing in the evening sunshine.. It's bloody freezing!

So there really is no excuse. Rain, snow, cold or just hungover.. get out there and go climbing!

Enigmatic Affection

Joe Simpson once described climbing to be a mixture between gymnastics and ballet. This joy and freedom of movement is usually the tipping factor in the balance between selfish indulgence and unacceptable risk.

Looking down one of the classic of the chimney genre;
the mighty Savage Slit of Coire an Lochain

However, there is a mysterious and foreboding derivative branch of mountaineering which doesn't conform to this pattern. Where freedom is impeded by lithological incarceration and joy is long forgotten commodity. Chimney climbing is undoubtedly the 'dark art' of climbing. If 'type 2 fun' had a definition in the dictionary it would list one of the many classic UK chimneys. Ascending these huge dank clefts really forms the basis of much of the UKs climbing history back in the early 20th Century where breeches and hob-nailed boots were as essential as a stiff upper lip.

Ian Stevens 'getting stuck in' on Just Fits, the a-typical route
dominating the western edge of Carreg y Barcud in Pembrokshire

Such routes are best saved for 'wild conditions' as if you're going to suffer, you may as well not waste a descent day! It would also be a grave injustice to attempt these in anything other than big boots and full waterproofs as rock shoes are not likely to provide any more 'stick' if the walls are covered in an inch of slime!

Many of these routes maintain there fearsome reputations and call for an abandonment of traditional ethics. Monolith Crack of Clogwyn y Tarw for example (see below UKC extract) is often climbed using combined tactics and in exchange for safe passage requires more than a generous donation of blood, sweat and tears. 'Swimming', 'trashing' and 'thrutching' are often endearingly used techniques to enable upwards progress however to describe this as a 'technique' would probably be misleading.. Arm jams, leg jams, chest jams and of course the full body jams all must be employed. Ascension is often a slow process leaving one bruised, battered and drained. The best training for such an outing would probably be several years worth of brick laying!

A captivating extract from the logbook notes of Monolith Crack from UK Climbing

The Vice at Gogarth, once you get inside you become the gear
placements! Perhaps take a car jack?

On the penultimate pitch of The Needle in the fantastically positioned final chimney crack.
Being over 300 feet up It's a one of the most 'out there' sections of chimney you'll find anywhere! 

So considering all of these facts why are people still drawn to such routes? Well the answer is simple - Adventure. These routes present the optimum challenge of strength, determination, flexibility and perseverance! Conquering a classic such as Lochwood's Chimney, Great Gully, Gwynes Chimney or Chasm Route is a monumental achievement and will propel the ascensionist to stardom! However some would sooner see the person sectioned. It's true, chimneys aren't for everyone. Think of them a bit like Marmite; you'll either love 'em or you hate 'em. But to be honest, you've got to love them! Chalk and wires are replaced by overtrousers and hexes, calming and relation replaced with panic and suffering and that pint at the end of the day will have never tasted so sweet. I'm also told they're best enjoyed wearing wellys but I'll let you be the judge of that..

Deep in the slimy bowls of Chasm Route on Glyder Fach on
a wet and wild October day

It would be an understatement to say that climbing has moved on since the first ascents of many of these routes. Yet the draw and allure of tackling something with such a strong natural line will likely continue to enthuse victims for many years to come!

The Close of Play

The Track to Binnien Shuas on a blustery autumn Saturday

Alarm goes off. Wake up. Outside its dark.

Turn off Computer. Drive home. Outside its dark.

It's certainly that time of year again. Increasing blackness and storm bound weekends. The confines of winter seem to creep up on you from out of nowhere but its surely still to early to be having day dreams of fresh powder and ice-clad peaks?

This summer has certainly been one of my best. Not necessarily pushing my grade but just the scale of routes attempted both in the mountains and by the sea. A couple of weeks ago me and Dave biked into Binnien Shuas on a windy Saturday and did the classic route Ardverikie Wall. The huge slab is supposedly the best route Tom Patey ever walked past. Good thing it was a slab as the temperature was cold enough to make Ranulph Fiennes think twice about being outside. I spent most of the day with my hands in my pockets trying to thaw out frozen fingers. I can see how that route gets 3 stars (in summer at least!).

One of the steeper pitches of Ardverikie Wall (HS 4b) on a brisk autumn day

Its awkward at this time of year. A good forecast includes the phrase 'unsettled' as then you at least know there is a chance it may be dry. It's true that rain hampers play, but they say there is no such thing is bad weather, just bad clothes. Unfortunately weather isn't the only autumnal issue. More recently an after-work climbing session at Creag Dubh was brought to an abrupt end but the sudden and inconvenient disappearance of the sun. Abseiling off down into the darkness and the gloom is defiantly an experience best reserved for winter climbing (as at least you're likely to have a head torch on you).

Abseiling of the Creag Dubh classic King Bee (VS 5a) in the by now well established darkness

Please don't misconstrue these negative ramblings as a hatred of the winter season. On reflection winter has innumerable benefits such as winter climbing (bit of a given really), fewer people (as many opt to pull on plastic), better friction (unless the rock is wet which is more likely than not in the UK) and of course an absence of the wee beasties. In fact this time of year is probably the most rewarding time to get out. Set deep within the Easter Ross the forgotten valley of Gleann Meinich echoes with the chorus of rutting stags. We were high on the side of Sgurr A'Mhuilinn climbing Salamander, a long and isolated route climbing a large schist outcrop. We didn't see any one on the crag, nor when we were cycling the 3 miles up through forest and to be honest we barely saw a car on the 30 mile drive up Strathconnon. T-shirts and chalk were substituted for thermals and gloves but the blissful isolation and solitude outweighed the suffering!  

Salamander (HVS 5b) climbs the central slab in 6 excellent pitches

Jim with frozen fingers on the crux pitch of Salamander (HVS 5b)

Damp rock and cold weather may well mark the close of play for this year but the sooner it ends, the sooner it starts! So here's to the end of the craggin' seasons. You've been a beaut but now its time for winter!

The promise of winter. We can only hope its one to remember!

Creag a'choire Etchachan

Once again the weather has been torturing the pen pushers of Scotland this week with seemingly un-broken spells of midweek sunshine. Thankfully Saturday adhered to wishful thinking and the high pressure remained dominant.

Jim checking the route on a water streaked Creag a'choire Etchachan 

The plan was to head to one of the most inaccessible mountain crags in the Cairngorms, Creag a'choire Etchachan (yeah!  I know! A total mouthful, but translates roughly as ‘Crag of the Corrie of the Juniper’). This isolated kilometre long bastion of granite is located deep in the central massif at the head of Glen Derry and is over 7km from the nearest road end. Being east facing it takes a while to dry out and is consequently more renowned for its superb ice routes in the winter months. However, the rock is of such impeccable quality that it's also a fantastic summer venue hosting many worthwhile routes such as the classic route tick Talisman (HS 4c).

Will seconding the fantastically exposed second pitch of Scabbard (VS 4c)

The Crimson slabs dominate the right hand sector and provide over 100m of vertical climbing from VS standard to E3. The first route we opted for Scabbard (VS 4c), climbs the arête that bounds the right hand side of the slabs in 4 superb pitches.

Will leading the main corner of Dagger (VS 4c)

The Impressive second pitch of Dagger (VS 4c)

After that we had a go at Dagger (VS 4c) which climbs the water worn corner below Scabbard. The confusing and bold first pitch is soon compensated for by the outstanding second pitch corner which is pretty tough for VS!

Some campers setting up for a still night on the shores of Loch Etchachan

It's an amazing venue and it's defiantly worth the walk in! Something to note is we’ve had an incredibly dry summer in the Cairngorms this year, yet both routes were wet in places and the slabs were streaked with water. Defiantly one for a hot sunny day!

Hunting for bilberries in Loch 'Arn still a long way from the car! 

Clean Sweep

With autumn fast approaching and summers grip rapidly fading into falling leaves and early nights it was time to get in some last minute mountain craggin'. We arrived at the base of the sun-baked Hell's Lum with the sounds of clinking-metal ringing out around the glen - clearly we weren't the only ones to have this brain wave. A quick glance around Loch Avon confirmed this with dozens of tiny coloured specks littering all the major routes; The Needle, Steeple, Afterthought Arete, and of course our route, Clean Sweep. Since there was a few parties ahead of us we opted for a leisurely start. The beating sunshine roasting any midges that were foolish enough to make an appearance. Our route; Clean Sweep (VS 4c) is a classic rock tick and is probably the most popular summer rock route on the crag if not the whole valley.

Looking the water streaked Hell's Lum with on the first pitch of Clean Sweep (VS 4c)

The first pitch climbs the slabby lower section to a groove which bars entry to 'The Whaleback'. Some tough, but well protected moves quickly see you on the top of 'The Whaleback' and the spacious belay. The next pitch climbs across the fault Deep Cut Chimney and then up the cracks and grooves (which was more of a swim in today's conditions!) to below the impressive 3rd pitch corner. The 3rd pitch is an absolutely fantastic test of sustained bridging and subsequent jug pulling. The start is quite delicate but the climbing culminates in a tough pull through an overlap before the easier continuation crack is reached and followed to a belay beneath a gopping overhang.

The superb sustained crux corner of Clean Sweep

Dave finishing the hard section of the crux corner of Clean Sweep

With the slabs of the lower pitches far below the 4th pitch blasts up a steep groove on big holds, although the difficulties are short lived its quite a lively pitch! Hellfire Corner, a classic VS to the left had an actual waterfall running down it meaning when the wind temporarily changed direction you got a wee soaking! At this point the sunshine had long gone, and the absence of any wind only meant one thing - Midges!!! An army that would equal that of Napolian himself seemed to appear out of every grass or mud filled nook and crany and they clearly hadn't eaten so far this year!

Dave leading the surprisingly steep 4th pitch through the overlaps

The guide books seem to contrast as to the best finish on the last 2 pitches; Cairngorms SMC recommends up the trickling corner whilst Gary Latter reckons step down and around the arete and up. Since the corner had an actual waterfall running down it we opted for the 'Latter' of the two options! The traverse was wonderfully airy and all the holds were huge so I would defiantly recommend this way instead of the SMC alternative. A final easy pitch saw us over the top and into the last of the fading sunshine, a great end to a great summer. 

Sunshine in the Cairngorms, it doesn't get much better than this!

Looking down the last pitch with the bottom of the crag far below, an outstanding route!

Lundy - Lessons in Adventure

"It's so dark, I can't see anything!"
"Just pull up the abseil rope and lets get out of here"
"Okay that's it done. Wait, what's that noise?"
"Fuck. Dave is down there, Fuck Sake Dave!" 

For those that don't know, Lundy is a small island located off the north west coast of Devon. It's a mere 3 miles long and half a mile wide with no cars and no roads other than the dusty track that transect's its spine. Most people go there seeking peace and tranquillity, however for a select few it's an entirely different proposition. With an entire guide book dedicated to its over 50 rock venues all mostly comprised of perfect compact granite it's a climbing paradise. Adventure and commitment are the flavour of the routes here, made all the more exciting in the knowledge that should it be required, the only rescue is from the other climbers in the campsite!

Frantic last minute packing and a 2 hour ferry ride saw us landed on the island. After a slow start (several hours putting up tents and practicing cart wheels) we decided we should probably go and do some climbing so headed off the Landing Craft Bay on its west coast. 

Lesson One - An approach 'scramble' actually means abseil!

Ed leading the VS 4c pitch of Roadrunner

The approach scramble off the cliff and down the 'easy grass gully' actually transpired into a sketchy two stage abseil but eventually we made it to the boulder strewn cove. The first two routes to fall were Roadrunner (VS 4c) and Centaur (HVS 5b), neither without incident!

The first pitch of Centaur (HVS 5b) which Jonny
decided to lead in trainers!

Lesson Two - Lundy Routes take AGES to climb

Due to some complications with the routes we had to abseil back down to the beach rather than top out. Even being only two pitches, both routes had still taken over 3 hours due to the required cleaning and other faff. And as we didn't start until 5 it was quickly getting dark and the tide had cut off our escape to the abseil ropes. Instead we had to climb up a loosely vegetated slope in the fading darkness. By the time we were all safely out of the cove it was pitch black. Due to a break down in comms Dave had also returned down the first stage of the approach abseil to provide a rescue that wasn't needed but he had no torch. It wasn't until Jonny pulled the ropes up we realized he was there! After a quick panic we nipped down through the maelstrom to grab him and swiftly returned to the campsite. 

Ed, Dave and Jonny on the 2nd pitch of The Devils Slide HS 4b

After heeding the lessons of the day before we decided to go for a more relaxing day and do the Lundy classic, The Devils Slide (HS 4b). The 'slide' is actually the biggest complete granite slab of anywhere in Europe and is a wonder of geological architecture! To mitigate the communications errors of the day before we brought Ed's walkie talkies. These were especially useful in the what felt like hurricane force wind. At one point Ed did a rendition of a Houdiini act when all his loose chalk blew away in a poof of white smoke!

Lesson Three -Take Walkie Talkies, as on Lundy it's ALWAYS windy

The 'Slide' is actually the longest complete granite slab in Europe and according to the man in the shop had actually received an ascent the week before by a Saudi Princess guided by Doug Scott!

 

 

The approach abseil and the main face of Beaufort Buttress

Continuing on the theme of a relaxing climbing holiday we opted to go to Beaufort Buttress again on Lundy's western shore. This impressive granite headland plays host to a series of low grade classics with a 'relatively' simple approach. A quick sideways abseil sees you on the tidal platform at the base of the routes, however if you arn't fazed about missing out the first 10m you could actually make a traverse on ledges round to the '2nd pitches' of all the routes. Rising above out of the turquoise sea is a massive plinth of bubbling golden granite riddled with classic lines. Stuka Direct (VS 4c), Hurricane (HS 4a) and Capstans Arete (VS 5a) were all ticked in quick succession and this time we made it to the pub before last orders!

Lesson Four - Visiting the the Tavern is as integral as climbing 

The thrutchy first pitch of Diamond Solitaire VS 4c

Flying Buttress is calling. Lundy's iconic huge overhanging sea arch has some of the islands most famous routes from the super hard Flying Dutchmen (E8 6c) to the ubber classic Double Diamond (HVS 5b). This huge sea arch looks more like a stack that has toppled sideways against the cliff opposed to just forming naturally due to the strata of the rock. As it was a bit dank we opted to go for the highly rated Double Diamond (VS 4c). After a quick abseil down the front of the arch we reached the base and geared up for the siege. Me, Emma and Fred led off up first followed by Dave, Jonny and Ed.

Ed leading the wonderfully positioned second pitch of Diamond Solitaire VS 4c

The route is split between two majorly contrasting pitches, the first being a large overhanging corner running adjacent to the slab, the second being an airy technical traverse across the edge of the slab to the inside of the arch then steeply up its top. A truly great climb and one that will be hard to forget! The first pitch is a bit meaty for VS but if you're confidant at the grade you'll be fine and there is more gear than you can shake a stick at. And that exposed second pitch is thankfully blessed with massive holds and only has one section of 4b slightly higher up but is again well protected.

 Lesson Five - Everything is hard for the grade on Lundy

After no shortage of grunting we conquered the climb and took the rest of the day off to drink beer and do general dirt-bagging duties.

The next day with psyche running high the plan was Headline Promontory however missing the tide meant we opted for a return to the Devil's Slide (much to the delight of the new members to the group who were here for only a day). Satan's Slip (E1 5a) and Albion (VS 4c) were high on the list of the days endeavours and again these routes did not disappoint!

Dave leading the second pitch of Albion VS 4c

Both routes climb the superb lower slab to various stances below the final headwall. Albion takes the strenuous clean corner though a few minor overlaps while Satan's Slip climbs delicately up the blank slab to join the corner further up. These greatly contrasting routes, one burly and safe and the other, bold and serious are both outstanding and are a must do.

Emma seconding the superb main corner of Albion VS 4c

The extremely bold and serious second pitch of Satan's Slip E1 5a

Probably time for a rest day. After a feeble attempt at letter-boxing we instead ended up putting up some new buildering routes up the side of Felix Hut (in deck shoes no less!).

Freds new route climbs the soaring left arete;
Ape Index F6b+

We opted not to put those in the new routes log in the pub though. True to form before long, the call of the cliffs drew myself and Ed over to Picnic Bay for a few cheeky single pitch VS routes. For those that are interested this is probably the most accessible and friendly location we climbed at on Lundy. The routes are mostly VDiff to VS with an E3 at the right hand end. Getting there only requires a small abseil and its all mostly non-tidal. Perfect for the stormy afternoon we had!

Tide times meant we needed an early start. Bleary eyed we made our way down to Jenny's Cove, so named because of the boat that sank there called 'The Jenny' laden with ivory and gold dust. The ivory was recovered but the gold dust still remains mixed amongst the sediments. We had a brief look but couldn't find any!

Immaculate Slabs in the morning light. The white stuff is not chalk!!!

Lesson Six - Just because its got 3 stars doesn't mean it won't be covered in Guano

The 60m abseil meant that we had to abseil past a knot in the rope. Even though we had practised this earlier in the week on fence posts in the campsite, doing it high above the swirling ocean was quite intimidating!

Moving along the ledge to the start of Immaculate Slab HVS 5a

The route we opted for was Immaculate Slab (HVS 5a) which climbs the steep groove up onto the slab and finishes in a wonderful position pulling through the final overhangs. Shouting at birds to make them move off the holds as you climb up was quite an experience and for some beta, the white mountains on the jugs is not chalk!

Ed climbing past the steep first section of immaculate slab onto the 'slabby' bit before the overhang

Jummaring up the rubble above Immaculate Slab to freedom!

After we were joined by Dave and Emma two further routes were sent down at Threequater Buttress; Ligamentum Flaven (S) and Quadratus Lumborum (S) both climbing through impressive terrain in glorious sunshine. We were even visited by a pair of seals who must have thought we were mad! Over on the east coast of the Island the remainder of the team spent the day climbing fury, overhanging chimneys. Defiantly an acquired taste.

Dave and Ed climbing the first slabby pitch of the wonderful Ligamentum Flaven (S) 

Dave climbing on the upper pitches

The barrel of ambition was being scrapped out good and proper for this one. Last minute drunken pub ideas meant somehow we had opted to climb the easiest route up England's largest sea stack.. The Devil's Chimney HVS 5b. The route first climbed in the 60s' seems to have a different route description depending on what guide book you refer too. Nice and reassuring.

  Lesson Seven - The last day is not for taking it easy.

The mighty stack of The Devils Chimney HVS 5b

Climbing the steep second pitch of The Devils Chimney (HVS 5b)

Getting to the climb is an undertaking itself! A 70m abseil must be made down an rotting slope ridden with angry vomiting sea birds to the base of Jenny's Cove. This boulder strewn cove surrounded by towering cliffs on all sides has to be one of the most inaccessible and least visited places in the UK. The tower itself is shaped like a huge letter 'A' with the central section being completely split apart by an enormous 'chimney'.

No trip is complete without some seriously exceptional climbing attire!

The first and crux pitch was made easier by the movement of boulders at the base of the route meaning the 5b start was no more than a cheeky boulder problem. Following that a steep pitch up the overhanging chimney lands you on a spacious mossy ledge below the final headwall. The last pitch though the overhang and up the steep slab sees you on the airy summit. Unfortunately getting to the top is only the easy part, now a 50m abseil must be made back to the boulders below and then you have to climb up and out of that cliff!

Fred seconding the very 'fury' top pitch

If you're thinking of doing this route its worth noting at the top of the cliff above the decent, 3 metal stakes have been banged in which according to the log book in the Tavern when combined with a 100m rope will see you on the cove floor. We actually traversed in onto the top of the descent slope and used a rock thread and good nut belay. Although we have a 50m and 25m rope tied together, a 60m rope from the points we used would probably be enough to see you on the cove floor.

Main Lessons of Lundy Climbing

Lundy is a unique climbing location. Its climbs are not obvious and can sometimes be really hard to find, but every time we tried they were well worth seeking out. It doesn't take masses of forward planning and its not overly expensive to have a trip there either. We spent a week climbing and didn't spend a single minute in cars or in gear shops (admittedly a lot of time in the pub though!).   

1. The first day is for taking it easy
2. The pub is central to any days activities
3. If the tide is low early, then you need to be up early too!
4. The Climate on Lundy is totally different from any forecast available
5. Take a 70m abseil rope that isn't stiffer than a toilet brush
6. Everything is hard, but ambition and psyche will not be deterred!!!
7. 'For fuck sake Dave'

Thanks to Emma, Dave, Jonny, Ed, Fred, Liz, Chris and Josh for an epic trip. Same time again next year I think!

A true island paradise, and for that reason we'll see you next year Lundy!