Open Season

Over the weekend I managed to kick off my mountain route season with an ascent of one of the Lakes most celebrated climbs – Corvus. This classic route scales the shady buttress of Raven Crag in upper Borrowdale in 10 contrasting yet equally enjoyable pitches. It was on my mind that the sun probably doesn't actually touch the face at this time of year because of its aspect but as the route is graded Diff, I was hoping most of it could be done in gloves! Thankfully, somebody at the met office left the heating on and it was in fact surprisingly mild, I actually broke into a sweat on the walk-in!

Looking up the line of Corvus (Diff) on a gloomy Raven Crag

Perhaps we should have picked a route on the other side of the valley?

Looking down the slimy second pitch groove with Dad just setting off.

The route climbs a series of clean slabs and walls on the left hand side of Raven Crags’ vegetated buttress, taking in some fine situations and entertaining pitches. The highlight of the route is undoubtedly the famous ‘hand traverse’ on pitch 7 – a short exercise in burling and peddling across an otherwise holdless wall. In rock shoes it would be a doddle however in ‘big boots’ the polished footholds are anything other than secure, that combined with the large hand holds make this section very entertaining for whom ever is belaying!

Pitch 6 up the wonderfully clean rib. The sunshine is up there somewhere!

The famous 'Hand Traverse' pitch - yes the 'footholds' are as good as they look!

 

The final 'scoop groove' on the last pitch

The rest of the route follows a fine line of cracks and finally up a scooped groove to the finish. Although not at all hard, its a wonderful route and deserving of every of its 3 stars (even with the polish!!).

Dad topping out with the moraines of Combe Gill far below

Sometimes the sun does shine in the Lake District. It definitely makes all those rainy days well worth it!

Quickie on the culm

I managed to get out this weekend on the Culm coast. For those that don't know the 'Culm' is a wild stretch of coast in north Devon and Cornwall and host some of the most adventurous climbing in the South West. The rock is often poor and the gear even more so, yet the climbing (at least the stuff I've done) has been totally captivating, often involving thin and delicate climbing on snappy and friable slabs. Its almost a 'the slate' by the sea!

I met with Mike (who felt the draw of the Culm so much he drove from Crewe!) at Stanbury Mouth and we descended down the muddiest path in the world to the beach. After a long boulder-hop hemmed in between crumbling cliffs and a roaring ocean we made it to Oldwalls Point. This huge sheet of Culm rises right up from the boulders for a full 50m. The high angled slab is one of the biggest, most compact faces on this coast and has two suitably compelling lines; Matchless and More Than a Match. Our route being the former, Matchless (E1 5b).

Mike swam up to the ledge to where the climbing begins as the start of the route was still damp from its recent tussle with the tide. After sending the the crux of the route, a hard step up with only a flaking peg for gear, you enter a strenuous crack system and then you just keep gunning for the sun!

Looking along the Culm, one of the wildest section of coast in the West Country

Mike trying to get some blood back into his calves, the crux is behind but there is still a long way to go!

For any wana-be ascentionists; the crucial peg was looking in a pretty sorry state and the tat at the top was looking a bit worn with a lot of UV damage but it didn't appear structurally compromised. After that we stopped at Hippa Rock on the walk out and I balanced up Coitionary Tales (HVS 5b). Somebody has kindly put in a lower off at the top which makes the unpleasant top-out a little less harrowing. Mike then had a go at Tales of Don Juan (E1 5b) after which we were chased to the pub by the tide!

Me leading up Coitionary Tales at Hippa Point.

Better in that out!

February is not the best time of year to be a climber based in the south of the UK. Dreams of pristine white slopes and curving ribbons of ice must be preceded by endless hours studying the spatial variation in surface quality and number of pot-holes per km on the M5 and M6 motorways. I mean there are only so many crappy sandwiches and red bulls that can be forced down before motivation begins to crack.. Sure, there is a whole lifetimes worth of climbing around the West Country but sometimes it’s good to have a change of scenery to prevent turning yourself into a fair weather climber! The change this weekend was a compromise as original plans of a Scottish adventure were inexcusably thwarted by jobs and logistics. Snowdonia seemed like the obvious choice. The optimistic side of me couldn't risk tempting sods law and so I packed my winter gear knowing that if the weather crapped out this would probably be the main reason why..
  

Looking across North Stack at Gogarth on a wild winters day. Not much ice here though!

The anticipated weather in the lead up was shocking with heavy rain/snow and storm force winds forecast to batter the mountains the entire weekend. An imminent thaw threatening to swell rivers and bogs to beyond bursting point combined with that atrocious forecast meant the winter gear would be staying exactly where it was - in boot of car! This left us with one option, a visit to seemingly the only place in the UK with a 'reasonable' forecast – Gogarth. A combination of weather, injuries and personal preference (not just on my side I’d add!) resulted in a long list of squeeze chimney routes being drawn up. Perfect! Better to be inside a warm chimney than sat outside in the freezing cold!

The first route we opted for was a big chimney down by Wen Zawn with an even bigger reputation – The Trap (HVS 4c).

An extract from UKClimbing.com with some colorful commentary on the logistics of the chimney..

Looking down the notorious first pitch of The Trap (HVS 4c) with our starting ledge
being smashed by the swell. Guess we'll be saving that for another day!

Rafe gunning for the warmth of the sun on the top pitch of The Trap (HVS 4c)

T
The route climbs a huge open chimney/rift up the plumb vertical promontory adjacent to Wen Zawn with the climax of the route being where it narrows to a squeeze just short of a belay ledge. It then continues up the cliff along the same line however as an off-width. We tossed a coin at the top, which unfortunately for him; Rafe won, meaning he was lumbered had the honor of leading the crux squeeze. We set up the abseil and over he went. No sooner had he disappeared did the walk-talkies we were using crackle into life. Through the deafening crash of the sea and the roar of the wind he managed to communicate that we had completely neglected it being the highest spring tide of the year and that the starting ledge (usually above the high tide mark) was being battered by all the power the Irish Sea could muster. Flummoxed, he re-ascended the rope and set a belay at the top of the first pitch. With us determined to do something, I followed him down then we climbed up the off-width pitch and went in search of something a little less tidal.

Bloody Chimney (HVS 4c) climbs a varied line up behind a large detached buttress at Upper Tier in 3 pitches, sharing the last with The Vice (VS 4c), another chimney we had done before. The route was absolutely fantastic and best of all, the start wasn't under water! It was an absolute belter and a total test of perseverance.. In fact, Rafe commented that ‘being beaten up by Mike Tyson would probably be more pleasant’. I have no idea what he means.. It’s a great route and has got to be a 'classic of its genre'.  

Rafe getting involved on the first pitch of Bloody Chimney (HVS 4c) at Gogarth Upper Tier

Deep inside the cleft on the second pitch of Bloody Chimney (HVS 4c)

Usually in life your advised not to go towards the light...
In this instance its pretty fundamental!

The following day the forecast couldn't have been worse. As an outdoor enthusiast you can see through the pessimism of normal forecasts however there are occasions when you can tell it’s going to be an unpleasant day, especially when they use phrases such as ‘persistent downpours’ and ‘impeded mobility’ or my personal favorite ‘tortuous conditions’. It wasn't a day for anywhere really. The silver lining was a small weather window from between 06:30 and 09:00 on the Sunday morning where ambient air temp will be above freezing and the front containing the snow won’t have arrived yet.

A moody day in Ogwen. Walking into Clogwyn y Tawr with the storm rapidly approaching.

Running on a similar theme of masochism from yesterday we opted for Monolith Crack (S). A notorious route located in the Ogwen Valley and yet another under-graded squeeze chimney. After arriving at the second pitch, where the fun begins, we realized it might not be ideal conditions when we had to move snow off the ledge to make a belay.. We spent hours getting spat out by this pitch which wasn't just wet, it was actually alive! Clearly the inch thick greenery growing on the walls was going to be an issue out of season! Swapping leads to take breaks the weather began to deteriorate and before long outside the chimney a blizzard was lashing the hillside. With one final ounce of effort Rafe managed to beat the pitch which landed us below the crux. After seeing the level of snow pouring down the crux chimney from the top out we retreated back through the storm to the car.

Rafe squeezing up the first pitch of Monolith Crack (S)

Looking up the second pitch with Rafe fully engaged in battle! 

Me 'busting a gut' trying to get some purchase on the slime!

Deteriorating conditions just before Rafe manages to break through!

Success! An avalanche coming down the next chimney meant it was time to bail!

About the most awkward abseil in the world!

Bailing off in a blizzard

With it still being early and not wanting to finish on a defeat we regrouped, grabbed our big boots and headed over to Clogwyn y Bustach to snatch an ascent of the infamous Lockwood’s Chimney (Diff). By this point it was raining on a biblical scale so we opted for two sets of waterproofs each! The route climbs up a corner system just right of ‘the marble arch’ to the base of a huge leftward trending chimney. This then follows a devious line behind the crag to just below the top. A final airy pitch sees you at the top. It was a bit like climbing up a waterfall with icy water continually running down sleeves chilling you to the bone, thankfully however we had a strenuous chimney to warm us up! A quality route and well worth the bush-whack to find it!   

Looking up at Clogwyn y Bustach from the base in the rain. This crag is more veggie
than a vegan restaurant!

Rafe rocking the oil skins ready for the onslaught of Lockwood's Chimney!

Taking the 'direct route' into the start of the chimney pitch.

Preparing for whats to come! Should have brought some goggles.

Getting involved on the chimney pitch. I think it would have been direr in a swimming pool!

Rafe nearing the end of the 'light' at the end of the tunnel!

Looking through the gloom down the final pitch of Lockwood's Chimney. A walk in the
park compared to the 

A great weekend out in 'less than idea' conditions but we made the best of it! Thanks to Rafe for the photos of Gogarth.

The Thin Line

We've all been there. We've all thought thank god I didn't fall off on that pitch. Reaching out for that finishing jug and hurling yourself onto the belay ledge, totally forgetting about the life threatening peril you were in not moments ago. I've read loads of mountaineering books where it does go wrong, where the author have written an explicit account of the events and the errors made, which are usually related to over-ambition or an arduous descent. I never really thought about the consequences of a serious fall, it's just all part of the risk you take, isn't it? Thinking that you'll deal with it when you get there..

Climbing at Sheepstor a few years ago on a summers day!

A few weekends ago I was climbing with Rob up at Sheepstor on Dartmoor. Its a great little crag with loads of low grade routes on it, perfect for a crisp post-rain winters day. We started easy taking on a HS then battling with the VS Mushroom Wall, which anybody familiar with the crag will know its about as much a VS as it is a good choice of route to warm up on! Anyway, after this with the psyche running high I mentioned to Rob a route I had done a few years back. One which wasn't done all that often.

Some top belaying technique as Rob warms up at Sheeps Tor

Sheltered Arete is an exceedingly bold E1 5b which climbs a leaning slab on the right hand side of the crag. The slab rises straight out of pile of boulders with the first opportunity for gear at around 9m before the overlap. The thought of myself having done an E1 that rob hadn't, compelled him to give it a go. Most people including myself do a small amount investing before hand on a top rope or bring along a pad however a high level of psyche regarded such frivolity as duplicitous.

A few tough moves and he was on his way up. As he made it to about 4m the the whole crag went silent. The birds stopped chirping and time seemed to move agonizingly slow. The next move, a rock-over onto a small foot was being quietly contemplated, as if the narrow line he were balancing on been success and failure had suddenly become a lot thinner. A moment later he committed to the move, and then out of nowhere the trusted foot slipped and he crashed down onto a grass patch narrowly missing most of the peripheral granite blocks. At first glance he seemed okay just very shaken but it became quickly obvious he had broken and dislocated his ankle. The climbers at the crag all burst into action, once we established it was only his leg that was injured we moved him out of the boulders so we could lie him down. Shortly after the air ambulance arrived, landing among the boulders. After relocating the ankle and administering a reasonable proportion of drugs he was off in the air and was at Deriford Hospital in less than 6 minutes. 

Thanks to everyone that was so helpful with of course the biggest thanks reserved for the air ambulance. A half kilometer stretcher carry down to the road would have not be pleasant for the casualty or his aspirant rescuers! The line between success and failure may be very close, but the two potential outcomes could not be more different. Heal up soon Rob!!

The Iron Angel loaded with an injured Rob shortly before it departed to Deriford Hospital (which it reached in 6 minutes!!)

Templar Way

Just to prove it’s not all about climbing I thought I’d write a little bit about this year’s forthcoming LWDA 100 mile ultramarathon. Last year was a total washout with rainfall in excess of a medium sized monsoon and mud deeper than the Mariana Trench meant almost a third of participants (including myself I hasten to add) didn't complete! Riding on the back of the previous year’s success in 2013 I didn’t do much in the way of fitness training or gear preparation and boy, haven’t I learned my lesson.. So this year it’s all about being ready and being fit!

I can imagine many of you are wondering what a 100 mile marathon is.. Well, for the purpose of clarity; it’s a grueling continuous walking/running race on a predefined 100 mile course somewhere in the UK. There are intermittent support stations proving food, tea and coffee (and occasionally something stronger!) but other than that you’re on your own! If you have to ask why you would do it, then you’ll never understand if I do answer so best just to keep thinking we’re all mad! 

The final miles along the southern bank of the River Teign. Apparently it's a bit trickier at high tide!

As with most of these long distance events, the biggest wall is usually the one in your head, and it’s also ironically the hardest one to train to beat. Luckily this year I am going to be out backpacking on Dartmoor every other weekend from now until the event helping to facilitate the training of Teighbridge Scouts 10 Tors programme. As far as physical toughness is concerned I’m hoping traipsing across the moor chasing a bunch of stroppy teenagers should provide at least a good base!

Other than that I am hoping to get out running as much as I can. 

Running along side the long abandoned Stover Canal. No chance of a swim today!

This started last weekend with me and me old man running the Templar Way. The 18 mile route follows the track of an old granite railway which quarried stone form Hay Tor and finishes in the quay of Shaldon. Its a great route following the old tramway with the best bit saved till last. If you're interested in giving it a go DCC have made a great route info sheet here. 

My Top 10 routes of 2014

The yearly round-up of trad-tastic, vertically inclined enterprise has made a return with my most memorable excursions of 2014. This year has seen another inhibition upon attaining sanity mostly caused by an impromptu emigration above the boarder to the Highlands of 'bonny' Scotland! The routes aren't the hardest routes I've done nor sometimes do they have the most stars, instead they are a list of routes which provided me with my most memorable days.

So without further a due, here follows my top 10 routes of 2014!

10; Obsession VS 4c, Cader Idris (Cyfrwy Buttress)

An aptly named and unsung mountain classic high on the northern flanks of the misty peak of Cader Idris. The route climbs up the huge slabs that dominate the Cyfrwy Buttress in 3 outstanding pitches overlooking the whole of Snowdonia. The route is neither simple nor stable, yet the atmosphere and positions are amongst the finest you'll find in mid Wales. A must-do for any choss loving mountaineering masochist!

Looking up at the mysterious face of Cyfrwy high on the side of Cader Idris

The route is probably best done after a reasonable dry spell as the crag faces north and is quite vegetated. A further thing to note is that the route doesn't finish at the top of the crag due to a massively unstable section with bars progress to the top (it can be negotiated at around Diff but it is unjustifiably loose!). Instead there is an in-situ anchor which can be used in conjunction with other lower belays to get off the face in 2 or 3 abseils. On our trip we found an abandoned severed rope so take car when pulling the ropes in high winds!

The end of the 2nd pitch of Obsession. Taken from UKClimbing.co.uk

9; The Magic Crack HVS 5a, Coire an t'Schechda

A fingery technical test piece forging a relatively direct line up Aladdin's Buttress with the main attraction of the route being the 3rd pitch crack which must be one of the finest in Cairngorms. With ambition running probably higher than it should have been on a drizzly mist clagged spring day this route presented an ideal opportunity for a great early season tick. After the brief walk up to the crag from the Ski Centre we found that most of the 1st pitch was actually still buried under last winters snow. However with some quick front pointing up the firm neve with the aid of a nut key or two we established belay in the gap between the snow and the rock face and set off.

The sublime 3rd pitch of Magic Crack on a blustery spring day

4 pitches later we reached the top abseil point and starting lowering back down the route. Diaster struck when we found ourself stuck at the end of the first abseil as in the final moments of retrieving the rope a rather strong gust wipped the end of the rope irretrievably around some flakes. Me and Cealan opted to nominate Scott for this rescue mission, who understandably wasn't overly pleased at the prospect of re-ascending ropes in the by-now driving rain with froozen fingers. Some time later we managed to free them and before long we were sat in the Ski Centre with a coffee and our dignity still intact!

8; Eagle Front VS 4c, Birkness Combe

The mighty Eagle Crag sits high in Buttermere's Birkness Combe and is a crag steeped in history and tradition. Eagle Front climbs the buttress in 7 contrasting pitches and sees you through some seriously impressive terrain. Hard to believe the first ascentionist climbed the route in socks in the 60s!

The mighty Eagle Crag located high in Birkness Combe. Eagle Front drives a fabulous line up the largest
part of the face with fantastic exposure the whole way.

Almost there! Sat up in Birkness Combe with Eagle Crag on the left and
Grey Crag on the right 

7; Moonraker HVS 5a, Berry Head

The Old Redout at Berry Head is amongst the finest sea cliff venues you'll find anywhere in the southwest. It’s limestone precipices cascading into the turquoise ocean bar access too all but the most intrepid explorer. Moonraker climbs a devious line up through its overhanging fortifications in 3 absorbing pitches and is well worth the effort required in the approach. 

Making the thrilling traverse out above the sea on the first pitch of Moonraker

Save this one for a good day as its pretty intimidating! More photos and a full write-up can be found here.

6; The Devils Chimney HVS 5b, Lundy

The fact its the highest sea stack in England coupled with its location on a remote island in the Bristol Channel undoubtedly places this in the top 10! This route has more character than Borris Johnson on Red Bull and is one of the most adventurous sea cliff climbs you'll find south of the boarder! The rock is dirty and loose and the approach is quite frankly harrowing yet it is still leaves you wanting more!

The steep second pitch of The Devils Chimney on Lundy

To be honest anything on Lundy is worthy of this list. It really is one of the best trad climbing destination in the UK and I cannot recommend it highly enough! Diamond Solitaire and The Devils Slide are also fantastic! More photos from the trip here.

Ed Tonkin making the airy traverse on the second pitch of Diamond Solitare (VS 4c)

5; Chasm Route VDiff, Glyder Fach

Loads of overhangs and chimneys which never get any sunlight and are permanently pissing water.. What more could you ask for?! The cliff itself is another often mist clagged mountain crag located within the Ogwen valley. Its a route of tremendous character and of which the best training would probably be a lifetime of brick laying!

Jed Jackson balancing precariously on top of the 'The Vice' shortly after
squirming through it!

Exemplary Welsh weather conditions 'The crag is around here somewhere!!'

4; Blaven and Clach Glas traverse, Difficult, Isle of Skye

Not so much a rock climb but maybe more the best alpine day you can have anywhere in the British Isle. Absorbing and sustained scrambling amidst one of Scotland's most dramatic landscape makes this one thing everybody should do before their knees give out!

Blaven and Clach Glas viewed from across Loch Slapin

Clach Glas is often described as 'The Matterhorn' of Skye.. It's easy to see why!

3; Bludgers Revelation HVS 5a, Slime Wall

An outrageous route that climbs an intricate line up Slime Wall on the side of Buachaille Etive Mor. The crag is right at the top of the mountain so you have to literally climb a Munro before you even get to the route! Steep and thrutchy lower pitches provide a perfect contrast with the delicate upper sections of which have a distinct 'space walking' feel to them. The route also appeared in the BBC's climbing production called 'The Edge'. We were hungover as hell when we did this route.. It was a great cure!!

Rafe stood at the top of Slime Wall with the rest of the world far below!

The mighty Slime Wall with some climbers on the upper pitches for scale

2; Centurion HVS 5a, Carn Dearg

It's probably right at the top of everybody's Scotland 'to-do' list. You don't need me to tell you how good it is. Go and do it! Centurion climbs Ben Nevis's most famous buttress; Carn Dearg in 7 outstanding pitches in a perfect marriage of slabs and overhangs. An enduring classic and I can't wait to go and do it again! More photos here.

The mighty Carn Dearg situated on Ben Nevis. Centurion drives a direct line
up through the central crack system to join Ledge Route at the top. 

Nigel Bond leading the last pitch through the final overhangs of Centurion

1; The Needle E1 5b, Shelterstone Crag

A combination of breathtaking exposure, intricate and sometime burly climbing make this route stand out way above the rest! The Needle climbs a momentous line up Shelterstone Crag set in the Cairngorms' Loch 'Arn basin. Forget 2014, this route is quite possibly one of the best routes I've ever done anywhere. The thing that sets this route apart is the crag itself is a 2 hour walk from the road end and you have to practically ascend a Munro to get to the bottom of the face, oh and then you've got the climbing - a full 260m worth in as many has 10 pitches! You can read a full write up here.

Cealan seconding the 5a Chimney pitch of The Needle with a lot of air beneath his feet! And
yes that is a snow patch 200m below!

We were extremely lucky when we awoke to brilliant and calm weather and at that point realised we have no excuses for bottling it. We had to do it! 10 pitches of climbing and 7 hours later we squirmed out of the final chimney to the top of the crag and bathed in the victorious sunshine! The route really is a mega undertaking and by the time we walked out we had been on the go for over 12 hours so if you're thinking of doing this one defiantly save it for a warm summers day. 

Looking up Shelterstone Crag from it's base with Cealan at the top of the 1st and Gregor and Duncan starting out on
the 2nd pitch.

So it's been a pretty good year this year for vertically inclined excursions. An abundance of Saturday sunshine was obviously a major influence however the greatest praise goes to those who were mad enough to tie on a rope with me!

As a final round-up I'm glad that my comfortable grade of climbing has been transferred into the mountains and sea cliffs as these are the places I enjoy the most. The climbing this year has been the best so far with nearly 100 routes climbed and more than treble that in the number of pitches completed. I can't wait for the rain to disappear and 2015 to get started!    

Others that didn't quite meet the bar it but still equally outstanding!
Sword of Gideon VS 4c, Applecross
Dagger HVS 5a, Creagan Coire nan Etchachan
Immaculate Slab HVS 5a, Lundy
Damnation E1 5b, Coire an t'Schechda
Prophet E2 5c, Cummingston
Troutdale Pinnacle Severe, Borrowdale
Unicorn E1 5a, Stob Coire Nan Lochan
Clean Sweep VS 4c, Hell's Lum