An Eye on Arran

When people think of the Inner Hebrides it usually evokes images of wild and remote peat clad islands, shrouded thickly in mist and superstition alike. Thrust far off Scotland's rugged north west coast, you’d be forgiven for thinking a visit would require hours of stomach churning driving down endless miles of windy roads (and that's before you've even get on the ferry)! Although this may be the case for some such as Mull, Islay or Jura it’s easy to forget that one of the biggest and most accessible islands actually lies further south than the centre of Glasgow. It’s because of this accessibility in combination with its wild and untamed beauty that ensures the Isle of Arran is the perfect choice for the adventurous weekend warrior.

With a reasonable forecast and a late evening sailing time on the Friday, myself and Caelan set off with bikes, climbing gear and a whole lot of tinned tuna and couscous from Ardrossan on a course to the Isle of Arran’s capital Brodick. The mission was simple, get into the islands mountainous interior and go climbing!

A few hours later, with the ferry crossing done and the bumpy cycle up Glen Rosa towards Garbh Allt bridge also behind us, we scuttled along the remainder of the Glen chasing the moonlit shadow of Goatfell as we went and pitching camp below Fionn Choire. By the time we turned in, the summits were shrouded in dense banks cloud which in hindsight was a telling sign perhaps. No matter though, the forecast for the weekend was good, so we both slept soundly.
   

The majestic granite spire of Cir Mhor situated at the head of Glen Rosa on the Isle of Arran 

The next morning we woke to the sound of light rain patting the outside of the tent. A quick glance outside through bleary eyes confirmed our worst fears. Everything was soaking. Worse still there was a cloud of midges so big it would make even the hardiest highland inhabitants go weak at the knees and run for cover. Since there was nothing else for it, we decided to stay put to see if the weather passed but by lunchtime it was apparent that the torrential rain had arrived, and it was here to stay. Such conditions wouldn’t usually be conducive to rock climbing in the UK, especially in the mountains, however Arran’s hills are not exactly typical mountain rock architecture. The gigantic magmatic batholith that intruded the Dalradian meta-sediments around 58 million years ago that dominates much of the islands northern mountains exhibits some of the most intriguing granite formations with vast and compact sheets of grey igneous rock. The lack of anywhere for weathering processes to get a proper grip means that towers, slabs and spires are in abundance and where the few fractures have occurred, all this focused destructive energy has formed humongous fissures and cracks that can be seen from miles away. What I’m trying to say is that from a geological perspective Arran is the lesser-known home of off-width and chimney crack climbing. Perfect for rainy days!

Adventure time! Boarding the ferry at Ardrossan bound for Brodick on Arran

Plans changed and waterproofs donned, we headed for Cir Mhor to see what we could get inside. By the time we climbed the lower heather clad approach slopes the cloud had thickened, but at least the rain had stopped. After a bit of uming and ahing we settled on Caliban’s Creep, a three star VDiff with an enticing description particularly for pitch four, where apparently subterranean passage is ‘mandatory’.  Although quite disjointed, the route was quite entertaining, especially on the ‘through route’ bit and provided suitable slimy challenge up the short but sharp chimney sections too.

Classic mountain clag. We woke on Saturday morning to rain on the tent. Ambitions curbed we opted for some chimney climbing on Caliban's Creep (VDiff). This Caelan on the second pitch making a thin traverse around to the first of the chimneys.

The entertaining fourth pitch of Calban's Creep, which required some pretty unique chimney climbing through the mountain! 

Caelan loving the chimneys, made all the better for the wet and the slime

Next up was Labyrinth. Situated over on the upper north east buttress of Cir Mhor, this ‘Classic Rock’ route had a reputation for requiring a stiff upper lip and an ability to deal with vast quantities of filth. Having now done the route, I’d completely agree. Every pitch was covered in grime and required at least half of ones body to be in contact with two sides of fissure at any one time. If quality climbing is your bag and you’ve got an irrepressible fear of veg and mud, then stay well clear. In short this probably isn’t a route to do with the missus. None the less, watching one of your mates squirm and squeeze through a variety of crud filled cavities is an opportunity that shouldn’t be missed and on that basis I can’t recommend this route enough. Best save it for when its soaking like we did, at least that way your clothes might stand a chance at surviving the shredding effect of those granite cracks.

The upper east buttress of Cir Mhor. Labyrinth (VDiff) climbs the obvious crack system running the height of the crag. By this time the weather had improved a bit, but everything was still pretty damp! 

The minotaur of the Labyrinth? 

The main chimney pitch of Labyrinth. More body contact than a six nations rugby fixture! 

Caelan on the 'inside' pitch of Labyrinth

Thankfully the next day we woke to almost clear skies and a fresh breeze. Without wasting a moment we grabbed the gear and headed straight back up to Cir Mhor. Released from our wet weather enchainment to chimney climbing, our attentions swiftly turned to perhaps the most obvious line on the mountain, the South Ridge Direct. Shaped like an upside down raindrop, broad like a barrel at its base becoming gradually more defined with height, it looks almost like a famous French Aiguille and is every bit as alluring. Being almost 200 m in length from bottom to top and with a grade of VS 5a, it’s a big undertaking and probably dispels its fair share of suitors on a regular basis. This especially so one some of the many named pitches such as the infamous ‘S’, ‘Y’ or ‘Layback’ crack pitches. However with an early start and some good weather (well at least dry weather..) we’d dispatched the climb by late lunchtime, with the named pitches all going without a hitch. The ‘Layback’ pitch was especially notable for its quality and although short, was perhaps one of the most exhilarating pitches I’ve done this year. After these sections the difficulties ease considerably, but none the less upper climb was equally as atmospheric, although this might be been related to the lowering of the cloud bank enveloping us and the view!
   

The compelling South Ridge Direct (VS 5a) takes a direct line up the lower buttress following the crest all the way to the top of Cir Mhor

All great things start with a chimney (at least they do on Arran..)

The 'Y' cracks crux pitch, fantastically steep and overhanging jamming. A quality pitch! 

Looking down from above the crux. The 'S' crack pitch is just below.

The 'Layback' pitch. The route follows the steep crack before breaking out along a line of flakes above the void. A superb pitch

Caelan on the upper section and yes! Its another chimney pitch! 

Conditions remained fairly 'atmospheric' all the way to top. At least it made the exposure more bearable. 

With the route in the bag and the weather hardly worth an extended stay, we headed back down to our tent before plodding down the last bit of the Glen towards the bikes. As we rounded the corner by the Garbb Allt bridge the clouds parted and the sky started to brighten up a bit. We even saw a couple taking a swim in their undies in the river. Don't get me wrong it was nicer weather, but it wasn't that nice... Perhaps they were from further north than we were?

The Isle of Arran really is an amazing place to visit, with Glen Rosa and Cir Mhor specifically being utterly spectacular (even in the wet). It was only a short trip over, but it was so good to finally get some climbing done after the disappointment of previous attempts on the island. To be honest it was hardly all roses this time round either, especially considering the soaking we had on Saturday morning, which combined with the knuckle skinning we had in those chimneys in the afternoon might be enough to put you off the place for life! None the less, I couldn't help thinking whilst stood in the que of cyclists waiting to board the ferry to Ardrossan, that I knew my intrigue for this place had only intensified as a result of the last few days and that I'd be back again soon.  

It was sad to be leaving such an amazing place, but that fact in itself means I know I'll be back.

Some of the photos on here are Caelan's too, thanks for letting me use them!