Last week I was in the Cairngorms with the boys from Devon for some winter climbing action. Whilst the wild weather meant conditions were certainly wintery, the three named storms we had to negotiate did make things quite testing at times... 

The weather the first day was calm in the morning but breaking by mid-afternoon heralding the arrival of the first of the named storms. To try and make the most of the weather window we headed straight for the northern corries, with Dan and Rich heading for Hidden Chimney on Mess of Pottage and myself and Jed going for Original Summer Route on Aladdin's Buttress. 

A deluge of snow earlier in the week followed by some slightly warmer weather meant that whilst everything was very white, there was also a healthy covering of useless cruddy ice. Little did we know this would be the theme of the trip with this stuff covering every crag we went too! The first pitch of Original Summer Route was no different, with chocked up cracks making gear quite hard won and progress reliant almost entirely on snowed up hooks or turf which had to be dug out. As we climbed higher the snow did get gradually more consolidated, but coincident to a worsening of the weather. We continued all the way to the pinnacle before reversing Alladin’s Gully and then heading back down the corrie. By the time we got back to the car, the view had gone and the wind had picked up. A sign of things to come. 

Jed following the tricky third pitch of Original Summer Route (IV,5)

More steep groves on Original Summer Route

Victory stance looking back up at the route

The next day was a walk day and whilst there was no named storm, winds were still forecast to be gale force, with snow showers throughout the day. With that in mind we opted for a smash and grab Munro bag on Mullach Clach a’Bhlair, the broad and rounder of the two Munros guarding the western flank of the Moine Mor near Glen Feshie. After 5 or 6 km of walking up the Glen we headed up a steep access track, gaining elevation quickly, with snow depth growing rapidly from dusting to shin to knee deep drifts in no time at all. Even with the coming and going of visibility as squalls rushed through, following the big landrover track was easy navigation, even though the walking wasn’t. As soon as we reached flatter ground by the summit plateau however we stepped in another world of compact and squeaky knee deep sastrugi and blowing snow. Following a bearing towards the intermittently visible summit cairn pimpling the skyline was surprisingly tough going, particularly with the rush of powder snow blasting underneath us in the cross wind. Eventually we made it to the summit, but the jubilation was somewhat bittersweet. As we set up the bearing for the descent, the wind started picking up and the sky grew black. In no time at all we were in the grasp of a serious blizzard, with visibility down to a few feet at the most. Whilst a little scary, having to do such complex navigation was great fun. This was definitely the case for me and Jed, but less so for Rich having forgot his goggles. He won’t be forgetting them again that’s for sure.

A brief respite from wild weather on the walk out from Mullach Clach a'Bhlair 

The next day Storm Eustace was to make landfall in southern Britain, bringing hurricane force winds to the south coast. For Scotland, whilst winds were high, it was more or less business as usual. We walked into the northern corries once again but this time with a fierce cross wind and light snow falling. By the time we’d started up our route - Fluted Buttress Direct, the snow was heavy and now pouring down the cliff. Strong westerly winds in recent days meant westerly aspects were accumulating vast quantities of snow, so FBD with its north facing aspect shouldn’t have been to bad. As we got higher it became clear that this aspect was also collecting a lot of snow and before long I was tethering up the lower crux grove on rounded, iceless holds being pummelled by endless powder snow. A quick retreat from some convenient tat saw us go on a counter and easier adjacent line, Wavelength. But after a pitch of that we were all freezing and becoming increasingly nervous about the shear volume of snow accumulating everywhere. With conditions worsening we opted for a swift exit up Spiral Gully, not wanting to risk an abseil down onto now loaded slopes below the crag. Eventually we made it up and out onto the plateau, but as they say, out of the frying pan and into the fire! Winds were now close to storm force and visibility down to a hundred meters or so and dropping rapidly. Thankfully we made it off without a hitch and got back to a very snowed up and buried car. 

Somewhat wild conditions on the day of Storm Eustace 

Fluted Buttress Direct, just before we bailed!

The car easily demonstrating how much snow had fallen in the time we were climbing! 

The next and final day couldn’t have been more contrasting, being dominated by a rare ridge of high pressure hiding in the wake of Eustace. Not wanting anything to do with north or eastern aspects we took a longer walk up and over to Stag Rocks, a vast and sprawling crag on the south side of Loch ‘An. The only issue with this crag was the combination of southern aspect and surprisingly sunny weather. Whilst temperatures were well below zero, the sun bathed base of the cliff was a sun trap warming rapidly so haste really was the main prerogative. Our route was a shy IV,5 called Albino, which climbs a cracked slab and then takes a wild line round an overhang before following groves and corners more easily to the top. The shear volume of snow and ice in recent days meant the slab was totally buried, and whilst quite delicate, was actually an exciting lead and not as thin as I thought it was going to be. The exit grooves would have been equally enjoyable, however the rope drag was unbearable, so made this quite a testing finish. By the time Jed and Dan had come up things were definitely warming up with running water and ice falling all over the place. Luckily the next few pitches were much simpler and everything was that bit higher, so a touch more stable. All in all, it was a beautiful day and well worth the effort of seeking out something that safer, even if it was a bit drippy. 

The cracked slab pitch of Albino (IV,5)

Jed soaking up some exposure on the steep and exposed exit groves on Albino

Given the weather over those few days I was extremely happy that we managed to get so much done. The rest of the UK had been battered by a series of awful storms and somehow us being that bit much further north for once meant we escaped the worst of it. Now you can’t often say that about climbing in Scotland can you! 

End of a great day on Stag Rocks, and a great trup in the Cairngorms